Wine Reviews

This special selection from the Willamette Valley Wine Auction comes from winemakers Gina Hennen of Adelsheim and Shane Moore of Gran Moraine. Harvested on Sept. 9, 2024, it’s got an intriguing bit of jordan almond and marshmallow on the nose, accompanying rich lemon curd. The wine is restrained on the palate, with plenty of underripe pear, yellow apple, and citrus zest. It’s got a lean body that will appeal to Chablis lovers, with a buzzing acidity that hints at a long life in the cellar. This will be even better around 2030, once it loses some of its precociousness.

This is a blend of Pommard, Coury, Wädenswil clones, planted in Willakenzie and Jory soils and harvested beginning on September 19. On the nose, the wine shows plenty of red fruit, with a distinct reductive note that will likely blow off with time. A touch of tangy yogurt too, with red cherry and underripe strawberry. On the palate, plenty of raspberry, sour cherry, with faint baking spices and a bit of compost. Buzzing acidity all the way through the finish. Drink over the next 7-8 years.

This special Willamette Valley Wine Auction wine from winemaker Bryan Weil was grown on Ambar’s Writer’s Block, where Chardonnay clone 548 is planted in Jory soils (the site is Oregon’s first Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard, as per Ambar). Harvested on Sept. 15, 2024, it’s got a nose of baked golden apple, lemon curd, with a slight reductive note and a peppery zip. Nice medium body, showing loads of citrus, green apple, and a racy backbone of acidity that lasts through a lingering, lively finish. A hint of vanilla and toast on the back end as well. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay that should have a generous 10+ year drinking window. Wow.

This blend of Dijon clones 76 and 96 comes from winemakers Alexis Harrington and Randy Freund. A barrel selection of Chardonnay crafted from blocks across the Eola-Amity Hills, it was harvested on Sept. 21, 2024, then barrel-fermented on native yeast. Melon, golden apple, pear, and a hint of citrus on the nose, touched with chalk dust, faint spice, and vanilla. On the palate, it’s juicy and tropical, with perfectly ripe pineapple, apple, pear, built on firm acidity. Nice layers of fruit, excellent tension, a delightful Chardonnay to drink in the nearer term.

Sourced from Benza Vineyard in the Laurelwood District sub-AVA, this special Willamette Valley Wine Auction lot was crafted by Paden West from grapes harvested on Sept. 24, 2024. It’s got a very demure nose, showing the hints of tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, plus toast, and crème brûlée. On the palate, it’s got Golden Delicious apple, lemon, and a touch of white peach carried on a lean body with a zippy finish. Drink now to 2031.

Comprising Pommard, 777, 115, and 667 clones of Pinot Noir grown in Jory soil, this wine from winemaker Kim Abrahams hails from low-yielding, deep-rooted vines at the Archer’s Paradox and Red Hills vineyards. Showing beautiful concentration in the glass, it’s got aromas or rich stewed cherries, strawberries, cotton candy, a bit of jordan almond, and baking spice. On the palate, plenty of strawberry, raspberry, clove, and a touch of earth. Drink over the next 7 years.

Hailing from own-rooted Pinot Noir vines planted in 1974, this bubbly from Kate Payne Brown shows a deep golden-salmon Blanc de Noirs color. The aromas are cheesy and leesy, with baked stone fruit, cardamom, and faint wild strawberry. Not a ton of toast, more leesy in character. On the palate, it’s aggressively effervescent, with faded red fruit, super high-toned cranberry, and lively acidity.

This cheekily named Chardonnay comes from a team of four female winemakers: Anna Matzinger, Luisa Ponzi, Kate Payne Brown, and Wynne Peterson-Nedry. It’s got a nose of ripe melon, pear, and bright lemon zest, with a touch of limestone and chalk. On the palate, it’s got a round body and extremely silky texture, with a vibrant minerally edge that softens slowly over the long finish. A delicious, mouthwatering Chardonnay to drink over the next decade.