Wine Reviews

96

House of Arras 2009 Grand Vintage, Tasmania, Australia ($108)

This is a totally exotic and enticing Tasmanian sparkler. Bursting with a nutty brilliance of toasted almonds and hazelnuts, ripe orchard fruit, baked apples, and lemon meringue, all this richness is cut through with a fresh line of tangy acidity and sea-spray salinity. Tangerine and blood orange notes emerge on the lengthy, full-bodied finish, with a persistent, focused, and zesty mousse. Aged 9 years on the lees with a dosage of 3.1g/L. Vineyard sources include sites in the Derwent Valley, East Coast, Coal River Valley, Pipers River, and the Tamar Valley in Tasmania.

100

House of Arras 2013 Late Disgorged, Tasmania, Australia ($199)

A positively riveting, Champagne-style sparkling wine from Tasmania. Immediately enticing, with rich baking spices, French pastry notes, zesty citrus, and confected lemon bar flavors, along with crisp orchard fruit. A vivid, frothy, airy mousse envelops the palate, growing expansive in the mouth, with fleshy fruit and white flowers, floral notes, slivered almonds, and a long, wet-stone, saline-acid finish. The late disgorgement adds impressive complexity from 11 years of lees aging; it’s a blend of 62% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Noir, with 10% fermented in new Francois-Frere oak barriques. This wine has great energy and is ultra delicious. Disgorged in November 2025. Founded in 1995 by pioneering winemaker Ed Carr, House of Arras produces traditional-method sparkling wines from cool-climate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grown across Tasmania. Based in Pipers River, the house is known for extended lees aging and precise, complex cuvées that helped establish Tasmania’s international sparkling-wine reputation.

97

Jean Mallet NV Brut Tradition, Champagne, France, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($148)

Positively riveting with a gorgeous nutty richness, toasty notes, and unimaginably fresh, with a perfectly bright, frothy, ultra-creamy mousse that comes from the undersea aging. The underwater aging accelerates the tertiary notes. With 36 months on the lees with a fabulously long, saline-mineral character. So incredibly delicious. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

95

La Lomellina 2018 Gavi Old Annee, Gavi di Gavi, Italy, By CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($84)

This label is owned by the owner of Ducati Motorcycles. There’s a beautiful freshness to this white, with fantastically saline mineral character infusing this candied citrus peel and lime pith, with slivered almonds and a terrific mid-palate richness. The finish is exceedingly long and resolves with mouthwatering freshness. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

99

Marchese d’Azeglio 2018 Meriame, Barolo, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($230)

So aromatic, revealing notes of rose petal, tar, licorice, and red currant fruits. Medium to full-bodied with softened tannins and soaring acid tension that keeps this wine lively and fresh. A long finish of dusty mineral black truffle notes adds further intrigue. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure, and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

95

Marchese d’Azeglio 2020 Nebbiolo, Langhe, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($73)

Vivid red berry fruit and warm Asian spices mingle with walnut husk notes, dried rose petals, and violets. A sultry, velvety palate is framed by integrated tannins, and a dusty mineral backbone reveals a salty steak through savory black olive, tar, and rose petal notes with incense and blood orange nuances. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure, and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

96

Mocali 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($126)

This Brunello is on the money. Blackberry fruit and currants, tobacco and leather spices, with rose petal nuances and gorgeously fine, firm, mineral-rich tannins that provide a sturdy structure supporting this gravelly mineral and saline-acid finish. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

97

Villa Canestrari 2021 Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($103)

Fabulous, powerful, and harmonious with a medium-bodied character, boasting dark fruit and a bullwork of soft, supple tannins. Salted dark chocolate notes mingle with medium roast espresso and integrated dark currant fruit that is rich and concentrated on the mid-palate, while the fruit-driven finish reveals notes of macerated cherries and brown spice. Downright delicious. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure, and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.