Wine Reviews

97

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Red Barn Block, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($90)

An artful mosaic of soil, red raspberries, cinnamon, candied apple, and spiced red tea. An inner light from a surge of acidity and gem-like mineral tones converge from mid-palate to finish.

96

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Two Forces Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($90)

Dense notes of strawberry and vanilla show earthy undercurrents. White-peppered licorice, hibiscus, and cranberries are cooling factors, while forest floor and Mediterranean herbs create a savory finish.

95

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($90)

Plushness without ponderousness appears to be a hallmark of the Rivière style, and this Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged for 11 months in (29% new) French oak, is a sterling example. Bright fragrances of lime and green apple mingle with richer ones of gardenia and pastry cream, presaging a palate that’s generous yet fresh and clean with lime, lemon, and white peach. Also characteristic of the producer is a lengthy finish, in this case finely marked by white pepper and stony minerality.

90

don’t tell mum 2024 shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($20)

If we were in the habit of gulping wine, we’d call this Shiraz from the family behind Mollydooker “gulpable”: It’s ripe and plenty smooth, with aromas and flavors of smashed boysenberry and dark cherry that flirt with dark chocolate and cigar box as well as hints of sandalwood and iron.

96

Dylan’s Ghost 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($98)

This is what your palate is anticipating: an approachable, opulent red that caresses as it coats the tongue, with white-peppered plum, roasted coffee, and black strap molasses-covered cedar.

93

Eden Dale 2022 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($38)

Earthy and ethereal. Dried roses, mocha, sweet tobacco, and tomato leaf are layered and soothing with a silky mouthfeel. Savory notes of umami, coffee, and soy sauce last long on the finish.

92

Eden Dale 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($38)

Dusky sweet oak and charred maple notes claim the palate on entry. Medium-bodied with a sultry character, refined by high notes of melon, baked apple, and vanilla bean.

90

Edmundo 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley, Chile ($12)

Tropical flavors of pineapple, gardenia, and plumeria are succulent. Crisp lemon drop notes are augmented by a grassy finish.