Wine Reviews

90

El Esteco Blend de Extremos 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon, Calchaqui Valley, Argentina ($17)

A blend of fruit from high-altitude estates, this ripe and bold red exudes notes of stewed plum, tilled soil, and milk chocolate, underlined by dusty tannins.

93

El Esteco Blend de Extremos 2025 Torrontes, Cafayate Valley, Argentina ($16)

Zippy and lively with sugared pineapple, basil, kiwi, and Key lime. Notes of green tea settle on mid-palate and through the extended finish.

95

El Esteco Fincas Notables 2023 Malbec, Cafayate, Argentina ($35)

Sourced from high altitiude vineyards, this is a ripe and juicy red with sturdy tannins. A luxurious wash of black cherry-vanilla smooths across the palate. Sweet soil, sandalwood, and a lift of crushed violets adds to the mineral-lined finish.

97

Etienne 2024 Coronati, Lirac AOC, Rhône Valley, France ($72)

Produced only in the best vintages from 60-year-old vines, this blend of 65% Syrah, 23% Grenache with percentages of Carignan and Mourvèdre shows exceptionally well. Its color is an invitation of brick and garnet leading to a profile of powdered cocoa that coats the teeth. Silk and suede tannins caress violets and juicy purple plum with a dousing of generous black cherries. There’s a savory seam beneath the sun-warmed blackberry center – leather and cured meats – both rustic and refined.

91

Franzia NV Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, 5L Box ($23)

This is proof that box wines have character. Powdered vanilla and crisp green apple, grapefruit, and honeysuckle are carried with grace along a clean path. Pleasant and easy drinking, with sweet basil on the refreshing finish.

90

GrapeHeart Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Suisun Valley AVA, CA ($48)

Spending 20 months in French oak, the taste of barrel, soil, and sun is evident. Tightly wound tannins demonstrate structure and muscle. Blackberry and graphite form a bond, with black pepper sparkling a mid-palate celebration. Tension, and a flow of black cherry adds depth to the finish.

97

Hawk & Horse 2023 Block Three Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills AVA, Lake County ($85)

With 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, this pin-pointed site sits on rocky, volcanic soils at an elevation of 2,200 feet. With a foundation of graphite, dried violets, and dark chocolate-covered blackberries, is a stunning velvet carpet mouthfeel. Chewy tannins connect with a mesmerizing finish of leather and rich blue fruit.

94

Hawk & Horse Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills AVA, Lake County ($75)

Aside from teeth-grabbing tannins and am inner tension, this elegant red owns up to its aromatic foundation of violets and blackberries. Soy sauce and mocha settle on mid-palate, with graphite adding a persistent, structured mouthfeel.