GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

96

Mocali 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($126)

This Brunello is on the money. Blackberry fruit and currants, tobacco and leather spices, with rose petal nuances and gorgeously fine, firm, mineral-rich tannins that provide a sturdy structure supporting this gravelly mineral and saline-acid finish. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

97

Villa Canestrari 2021 Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($103)

Fabulous, powerful, and harmonious with a medium-bodied character, boasting dark fruit and a bullwork of soft, supple tannins. Salted dark chocolate notes mingle with medium roast espresso and integrated dark currant fruit that is rich and concentrated on the mid-palate, while the fruit-driven finish reveals notes of macerated cherries and brown spice. Downright delicious. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure, and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

96

Villa Canestrari 2022 Soave Superiore, Italy, by CW Underwater Cellar Coral Wine Project ($84)

Super fresh, citrusy, with orchard and tropical fruit notes, and excellent mid-palate depth, framed by slick tangerine and lemon oil, and saline acidity. The wine boasts incredible staying power. Further notes of licorice and anise add intrigue to this velvety wine, which finishes with tropical fruit notes of underripe guava and pineapple. Downright delicious. Following conventional cellar maturation, the sealed bottle underwent additional aging beneath the sea, where darkness, stable temperature, water pressure, and gentle currents created an alternative environment for its evolution.

92

Cricket Farms 2024 Chenin Blanc and Rousanne, Lake County, California, USA ($35)

A zesty, bright, and crunchy white wine with plenty of nervy acid tension to make this a wonderful anytime sipper. The addition of Roussanne is brilliant, balancing the zesty acid tension with a kind of lemon-oil slickness, and the finish reveals more fruit notes of lychee and kumquat. Abv. 14%. 54% Chenin Blanc, 46% Roussanne.

93

Folium 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France ($35)

A wonderfully fresh, lifted, and vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley of France, bursting out of the glass with wet stone minerality, orchard, and stone fruit, with a plush, juicy core of apple and pear notes, and a smooth, silky, light- to medium-bodied finish. Pair with salads and creamy cheeses spread on a just-baked baguette. Abv. 12.5%. 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

94

No Love Lost 2024 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA ($60)

For a Russian River Pinot Noir, this is quite crisp, focused, drinking more like a West Sonoma Coast Pinot, with graphite minerality, blood orange, crisp apple-skin tannins, and ultra-bright, crunchy red berry fruit. Quite tasty, coming in at 12.3% alcohol; something you can sip all day long. Abv. 100% Pinot Noir.

93

No Love Lost 2025 Albarino, Lodi, California, USA ($42)

This is one bright, vivid, electric, and zesty Albariño from Lodi, bursting with honeydew melon, kiwi, and white floral notes, with crisp, crunchy apple and pear fruits emerging on the lengthy, medium-bodied finish. A crushable white wine, and at 12.1%, you can enjoy it all day long. 100% Albariño.

89

Aridus Vineyards 2021 Petite Sirah, Arizona ($72)

Full-bodied, boasting mixed berry pie, baked cherries, dark chocolate, and toasty oak spices with super powerful tannins infused with smoked paprika spice, finishing with real warmth and generosity from the 17.1% alcohol. Not for the faint of heart, but certainly heart-warming. Founded in 2012 by Scott and Joan Dahmer, Aridus (from the Latin word for “dry” — pronounced AIR-ih-duhs) is rooted in southeastern Arizona’s rugged, high-desert terroir.