Wine Reviews

95

Iconoclast 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California ($60)

Cedar and cola percolate from the jump with hints of mocha. The texture is lush yet sinewy, packed with savory spices and no small amount of sumptuous ripe strawberry and cherry. This is concentrated, full and charming, a wine that beckons for more with a complexity that would be a perfect fit for food.

94

Iconoclast 2023 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California ($30)

The enticing fragrance is riddled with lime zest, jasmine and a soupçon of pistachio ice cream. The mouthfeel is taught with a tension that slowly tightens its vice on the senses. There are notes of green apple skins, pear flesh, and a touch of custard for a dense, succulent finish.

93

Iconoclast 2023 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, California ($35)

Like a dancer filmed in black and white, there is a grace and a brooding quality to this Pinot. The mouthfeel rises and crests with boundless energy, showcasing cherries jubilee dusted with cedar and the crust of a rhubarb pie. The palate is round and velvety, abundant with spices and fresh red berries.

93

Il Poggione 2023 Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Toscana, Italy ($31)

With tension in its design, this streamlined red exhibits teeth-lining tannins and high-toned acidity, balancing cherry, pomegranate, and vanilla-lined sandalwood.

92

Ironstone Vineyards 2022 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Sierra Foothills, California ($30)

Showing just a little leafy aromatic character to keep this true to Cabernet Franc’s varietal character, this follows with medium body, black plum and dark cherry fruit, subtle wood influence, and fine-grained tannins well-tuned to the wine’s weight and fruit. Very well grown and made.

93

Isabel Estate 2021 Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20)

A Southern Hemisphere Pinot harvested during the first half of the 2021 calendar year may seem like a latecomer to our shores, but this certainly benefitted from development during the interim since the fruit was picked. Ripe black cherry fruit is augmented by pleasantly earthy notes recalling wild mushrooms and spicy accents. This a terrific overachiever in relation to its price.

92

Isabel Estate 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20

A single vineyard wine from Marlborough’s Waihopai sub-district, this shows a fully ripe profile with delicious fruit sweetness but no confected or sugary character. Lemon curd and mango fruit notes predominate, with an edge of freshly squeezed lime acidity providing both textural definition and flavor complexity.

95

J. Lohr 2023 Cuvée Pau, Paso Robles ($50)

A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, with a nod to Bordeaux’s Pauillac district. Earthy and mineral-driven with cassis and cedar spice. A touch of herbaceous permeates, with eucalyptus and graphite. Tobacco is sweetened by ripe purple plum and violets on the long, deep finish.