Wine Reviews

93

EpsilonCru 2019 Reserva Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($32)

An unabashedly big, powerful Malbec, as a serious dose of oak has been balanced out over time with very ripe and physically dense fruit to result in a heavyweight wine that remains proportional. It is well suited not only to beefy dishes but also to other spicy foods that will benefit from its abundance of ripe fruit. A bargain at this price in this style.

91

Forrest Estate Winery 2022 Brigid Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20)

At only 9.5% abv, this light but expressive white shows lemon-lime chiffon, with crisp pineapple and kiwi notes. It is fresh and clean, with a touch of sweet basil on the finish.

93

Franco Conterno 2021 Nascetta, Langhe, Piedmont ($20)

Notes of lime blossom, kiwi, Italian herbs, and pine nuts are thrilling in this light, crisp, but quite expressive white. Nascetta is a fairly unknown white grape, but its clean lines and mineral finish makes us a fan.

96

Frisson 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville, Napa Valley ($125)

Intensity defined, with teeth-grabbing plum skin tannins. Espresso and dark chocolate dominate, with slate not far behind. We have here a balance of power and beauty.

91

Gary Farrell 2021 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($40)

Pale yellow color, wonderfully expressive aromatics, stone fruit, melon, citrus zest and roasted nut notes that carry through to the palate, good weight with very well integrated oak, vanilla, the wine is round and polished, with volume, yet it retains a fresh vibrancy, there’s an interesting, nuanced layering that evolves nicely with time.

93

Gary Farrell 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Cty. ($50)

Medium deep core, slight fade at the edge of the glass, positive intensity aromatics with both breadth and range, dried rose petal, tart cherry, pomegranate, Asian five spice notes, and integrated oak. Quite an elegant and refined style, with ample presence, and sound acidity to bring lift to the palate. Ultra smooth with a long finish. Sourced from a range of prime vineyard sites.

92

Geyser Peak 2020 Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Richly textured, with plush tannins. Dark red and blue berries feel plump on the palate. The sleek liquid is enhanced by mocha and saddle leather. Cedar and sweet tobacco weave a well-tailored finish.

96

Grieve Family 2021 Double Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($225)

Winemakers Philippe Melka and Maayan Koschitsky have created a youthful, athletic wine. Chewy tannins are unrestrained, with a glossy nature that sets a steady pace across the palate. Rich, ripe notes of boysenberry and black plum merge with black peppercorn and grainy, bittersweet chocolate.