Wine Reviews

91

Dolum Estates 2021 Cak #11 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($100)

Almost port-like in its depth and concentration. Powered by bittersweet dark chocolate, green herbs, and tea tannins.

90

Dona Bernarda 2019 Red Blend, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($45)

Deep core with some fade at the rim of glass, pronounced smokey, charred oak component, cassis, blackberry, good intensity, robust, full, firm structure, some underlying pyrazine notes, moderate length, grippy tannins. Oak plays a prominent role. If that’s to your liking, you’ll amply enjoy this wine. Made from a range of clones from hillside sites.

93

Dough Wines 2020 Chardonnay, North Coast ($19)

The first wine partnership with the James Beard Foundation, Dough invested almost $750,000 to support the foundation’s programs and other philanthropic organizations. Stainless steel and barrel fermented, it is aged for 10 months n new and used French oak. Fresh aromas of pineapple and melon meld with honeysuckle for an inviting beginning. The mouthfeel is exceptional – a creamy yet spirited vibrancy of lemon blossom, white flowers, and white cake. The finish is clean and crisp.

92

Dough Wines 2021 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($22)

Head Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen collaborated with a team of James Beard Foundation chefs to create this French oak-aged red. Within the grasp of tobacco leaf and wild cherry, it’s a high-toned acidity that keeps this sleek Pinot Noir built for food-pairing abilities. Juicy, with a spicy finish.

93

Dutton Estate 2022 Karmen Isabella Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $50)

Off the estate Manzana vineyard, in the Green Valley neighborhood, this red is primed for pleasure. Roses and bright cinnamon-kissed cherries are fresh and vibrant. A touch of sweet tobacco and rosemary season a perpetual flow of juicy red fruit. Light bodied and delicate, but with a grounding of tilled soil on the finish.

91

Ebb + Flow 2021 Chardonnay, California ($18)

Appropriately light in color and weight for the variety, this offers delicate flavors of dark cherries with minimal wood and enough sweetness to pair effectively with spicy fish, chicken, or pork dishes. This Pinot Noir rolls a good number at a good price.

92

Eden Dale 2020 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($40)

Well measured oak offers subtly spicy and toasty accents to a core of tastefully ripened fruit with flavors recalling mango, baked apple, and fresh pineapple. The acidity is as nicely balanced as the wood, suggesting skillful cellar work as well as good decisions in the vineyard, with that latter fact coming as no surprise from the famed growers of the Sangiacomo family.

92

Elouan 2021 Chardonnay, Oregon ($20)

Creamy vanilla and lemon blossoms spread generously across the mouth. A striking acid structure, with a crisp, honeyed yellow apple finish.