Wine Reviews

93

Tenute Bosco 2020 Etna Rosso DOC, Sicily, Italy ($45)

Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, we go into the earth, with Porcini mushroom, oregano, and dried leaves. Bright cherry-cranberry brightens the wine, threaded by minerality.

93

The Prisoner 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

Prominent notes of dried violets and purple plum break free, leaving behind a dusty mouthfeel. Between its depth of inky black-carmine hue and a liberation of cocoa-coffee, the sense of intensity and intrigue is what makes this wine so popular. Cassis and black currant flow on the finish.

92

The Sneak 2022 Red Blend, Los Carneros, Sonoma County ($30)

In its inaugural vintage, this blend pf 51% Merlot, 22% Syrah, 22% Grenache, with some Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Cab Franc, and Malbec. The Sneak is founded by the youngest member of the Cline family, Henry, who is known for his rule-defying antics. Notes of black-peppered cherries, with teeth-grabbing tannins. Black raspberry is jammy rich, dusted with mocha-espresso. Well-structured, with depth of character.

90

The Specialyst 2021 Zinfandel, Lodi ($20)

An ultra-ripe perfume of underbrush and salted cranberry leads to vivid acidity. Juicy, black raspberry and a touch of coffee bean adds to a grainy, textured mouthfeel.

96

Three Sticks 2021 Price Family Estates Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($72)

Sourced from this producer’s six estate vineyards, this bottling might seem comprised of the “leavings” of the various growing sites, but in fact it is a shining achievement from a challenging vintage. Superb purity of fruit is the key to its success, with delicious notes of dark cherries and blackberries with alluring spice accents and nascent savory undertones. Fruit, oak, acidity, and tanning are already perfectly integrated when this is given time to breathe, at which time it becomes breathtaking.

94

Three Sticks 2022 Chardonnay,Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($70)

Fluctuating temperatures required that the fruit from this renowned site be picked at various points over an extended stretch, but the watchfulness and effort involved in this paid very generous dividends. Already impressively balanced and integrated, it shows complex fruit recalling stone fruits, ripe apples, and even tropical notes, spiced up with just a subtle touch of French oak. Ready now but poised for at least five years of improvement.

93

Torpez à Saint Tropez 2023 Bravade Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($30)

A floral carpet on nose and palate indicates jasmine, roses, peony, and hibiscus. Elegant, with an enlivening brisk acidity with a crème fraiche undertone. Notes of cranberry, passionfruit, and white cherry are well connected to a thread of wet stone, with a wash of marzipan on the finish.

94

Trione 2017 Zinfandel, Flatridge Ranch, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($37)

A shadowed brooder, deep and delicious. Devil’s food cake and a charge of soy sauce fill the mouth. A woodsy mid-palate further defines a broad mocha finish, topped with rich plum pudding.