Wine Reviews

91

Sean Minor California Series 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($18)

Admirably pure but still punchy, this Cab succeeds on the strength of its core of fruit without any evidence of cellar trickery. Red berry and dark cherry notes show full ripeness but also a fresh edge, and the finish draws definition from tannins that seem more like an extension of the fruit flavors than a distinct textural element. Very smart craftsmanship here.

94

Sean Minor Signature Series 2022 Nicole Marie Red Blend, North Coast, CA ($28)

A remarkably complete and convincing red from the 2022 vintage, this is comprised of 50% Merlot and 25% each of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. The presence of each variety can be sensed with some effort, but their integration is surprisingly harmonious. The Zin and Petite components kick in brambly berry flavors and the Merlot calms them down a bit, with delicious results. A very smart blend.

91

Simple Grape 2021 Chardonnay, California ($16)

Also impressive is the label’s Chardonnay, also containing no sugar, gluten free, and at three carbs per serving. Creamy notes of vanilla pudding are graced with Key lime and butterscotch, but the core is ultimately lean and lively, A truly modern style white.

92

Simple Grape 2022 Pinot Grigio, California ($16)

Certified Sustainable Winegrowing is just one feat from this charming white wine. With zero sugar and 2-1/2 carbs per serving, the palate engages with clean mineral notes, lifted by a high-toned acidity. Lemon wedge and honeyed pears gleam, with pretty white petals on the finish. Totally impressive.

93

Starfield Vineyards 2022 Bronson Bros. GSM Red Blend, El Dorado, CA ($48)

Vibrant, bold appearance, with excellent intensity. Shows savory spice, cracked pepper, dark cherry, strawberry compote, developed with a smokey, layered, focused, intense character. Ample weight and structure: balanced very well with a long-extended finish with finely grained tannins. It will cellar well for another three or four years. 35% Grenache, 32% Syrah, 23% Mourvedre, 7% Petite Sirah and 3% Cinsaut. Aged in French oak for 18 months, 1/3 new oak.

89

Starfield Vineyards 2022 Marsanne, El Dorado, CA ($34)

Pale, slight bronze tinge, aroma of kaffir lime, citrus zest, apricot, peach and jasmine tea, full and ripe on the palate, broad, weighty, slightly creamy texture with moderate intensity. Produced from 96% Marsanne and 4% Viognier. Fermented in stainless steel, then aged six months in neutral oak. 165 cases produced.

91

Subterra 2022 Pinot Noir, Los Olivos District, Santa Ynez Valley ($23)

Bright and shiny, with a chalky mouthfeel. Notes of red tea, oregano, mulberry, and tilled soil are fresh on the palate. Acidity is electric, enlivening a refreshing tone from start to finish.

95

Tenute Bosco 2017 VICO, Etna Rosso DOC, Sicily, Italy ($125)

With a 90% foundation of Nerello Mascalese, this wine emotes electric energy that runs through cherry, sweet tobacco, and peony. Underlying earth tones are platformed by keen acidity.