GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

96

Sea Smoke 2021 Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($90)

Growing and making Chardonnay that is at once very complex and tightly coherent even its youth is very challenging, and few efforts succeed at the level resulting in this wine. Both orchard and tropical fruit notes are so well balanced that neither has an edge over the other, and acidity and oak are so deftly integrated that they are easier to infer from the wine’s overall character than sensed as distinct elements. Compellingly delicious now, it will be better still in five years and may yet improve after that.

97

Sea Smoke Estate, 2021 Southing Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($95)

Very expressive in both aroma and flavor, with full body and very deep flavors, this takes a stab at answering the question, how “big” can a wine can be and still really taste like Pinot Noir? The answer it offers is very big, if the fruit is extremely pure and is structured with fresh acidity, very fine-grained tannins, and a measured dose of high-class oak. This achieves an extraordinary sort of delicacy on a grand scale.

91

Seaglass 2023 Alcohol-Removed Pinot Grigio, Central Coast ($13)

A lovely perfume of peaches, lemon verbena, and wet stone. A plump mouthfeel adds body to flavors of quince, tangerine, and lychee. Refreshing, crisp, and lively.

90

Seaglass 2023 Alcohol-Removed Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($13)

Desirable aromatics of grapefruit, sea-salted apples, with a tart flavor profile. Ethereal notes of candied kiwi, honeysuckle, and honeydew are charming. Nine percent grape juice.

93

Sean Minor 2022 Signature Series Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($28)

The production techniques flowing into the finished product here are what one would expect in a Chardonnay costing at least $40. We are talking about 20% new French oak and laborious in monitoring malolactic fermentation barrel-by-barrel before stopping that process to retain bright acidity to counterbalance rich flavors. The result is highly complex in relation to selling price.

91

Sean Minor 2023 California Series Rosé of Pinot Noir, California ($18)

Fresh and tasty, this is made by a traditional method of bleeding juice from tanks with partially macerated Pinot Noir, with the remainder finished as red table wine. Aromas and flavors show delicious red fruit character while remaining reserved and light as befits a fine rosé.

94

Seven Oxen Estate Wines, 2018 Tannat, Paso Robles ($62)

From the cooler Templeton Gap sub-AVA, this dry-farmed, head-trained Tannat is ripe, with boysenberry opulence. Candied violets surge forward, slathered in chalky slate. Meaty body, with streamlined tannins, this well-crafted red carries a perfume that douses nose and palate.

91

Seven Oxen Estate Wines, 2019 Mourvèdre, Paso Robles ($58)

Grown on the estate’s limestone-rich vineyard that crosses Templeton Gap and Willow Creek sub-AVAs using organic and Biodynamic farming techniques. Aged in 100% neutral French oak for 18 months, this meaty and spicy red shows high-toned black cherry notes entwined with leather and chocolate. Slightly gamey, with a distinct mineral finish.