Wine Reviews

90

Valdo Aquarius Blanc de Blancs, Italy ($16)

The charm of the painted bottle this blend of Garganega and Glera is housed in, depicting a mermaid emerging among blossoms, extends to the wine itself, wreathed as it is in the fragrance of acacia flower as well as yellow apple, green melon, and white peach with a sprinkle of salt. The palate follows suit as the sprightly entry mellows toward the midpalate.

91

Valdo Marca Oro Prosecco DOC Brut, Italy ($16)

A ripe nose of lychee, honeydew, and honeyed yellow apple slyly belies the palatal freshness of this classic and classy Prosecco, marked by lively acidity and notes of more apple, lemon sorbet and zest, and a dash of salinity.

95

Vallado 2019 Touriga Nacional, Douro DOC, Portugal ($60)

Dusty graphite, a whisper of charred cedar, and black plum are rich, robust notes. The black peppered tobacco finish is tempered by a graceful acidity and an underlying elegance.

93

Verterra 2019 Sparkling Wine, Brut, Traditional Methode, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan ($35)

Estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay yield a sparkler with polish equal to its confidence. Flashes of strawberry and almond enhance a nose of bruised pink apple that’s strewn with florals all the way to the palate, where it mingles with subtleties of bread, black cherry, and pink grapefruit. Ample but fine acidity adds depth to the fruit, as does a lingering finish.

93

Verterra 2022 Pinot Blanc, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan ($24)

Not a bit shy, this estate-grown white introduces itself with splashy aromas of apricot, young pineapple, and green apple accented by hints of lanolin and stone—all of which resonate on the ripe, creamy palate in tandem with peachy acidity and a twinkle of citrus.

92

Villa Pereire 2020 Bordeaux Rouge, France ($23)

Very well crafted, possessing wonderful aromatics of cassis, ripe plum, blackberry, and dark cherry. A balanced level of concentration and weight with a slight savory note. Texture is medium-full, round, and accessible. Its subtle oak character lends polish and refinement, with nice length on the back palate with well-integrated tannins. Produced entirely from Merlot.

90

Villa Pereire 2021 Bordeaux Blanc, France ($23)

Pale, youthful appearance with a slight greenish tinge. A lifted aroma of fresh herbs. On the palate, light citrus notes are fresh, bright, and pure with good intensity. It strikes a nice balance between vibrancy and richness, while nicely layered with a bit of oak to lend an added level of complexity. Made from 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Semillon.

93

Villa Pereire 2021 Côtes du Rhône, France ($23)

Very well made, spot one, textbook Cotes-du-Rhone example with a medium deep hue. Beautifully lifted red fruit, raspberry, cracked pepper, star anise, with ample weight on the palate. The wines shows intensity and range, and so well balanced. It was enjoyable from the moment it was opened, and it develops further with some aeration. Predominantly Grenache, providing the foundation of the wine; Syrah adds a layered complexity and a small amount of Mourvédre lends aromatic range.