Wine Reviews

La Voluptueuse is one of the most successful auction lots of recent years, and the 2024 is a blend of two family estates: 75% comes from the Bergström Vineyard (Dundee Hills AVA) and the rest from La Spirale (Ribbon Ridge AVA). Harvested starting on September 1, this is extremely sweet-fruited on the nose, with powerful red and black fruits accented by baking spice. Plenty of the same on the palate, with lush red fruits showing clove and cedar accents that fade over the medium-long finish. Drink over the next decade.

Second-generation winemaker Ben Casteel crafted this special auction Chardonnay from own-rooted, organically farmed Wente vines planted in volcanic soils in 1977—vines that perished after the vintage. The deep golden color hints at this wine’s concentration. On the nose, it’s got deep notes of crème caramel, baked lemon, and a touch of clove and vanilla. It’s full and robust on the palate, with a sexy mouthfeel and flavors of baked apple and citrus, toast, and crème fraiche. A racy, energetic finish to robust Chardonnay that will thrill fans of fuller-bodied styles.

Hailing in equal parts from Cristom’s Jessie Vineyard and Bethel Heights’ Steep Slope, this wine comprises Pommard and Dijon clones 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 harvested starting on September 30. It shows gorgeous deep concentration that hints at the wine’s potential in the cellar. On the nose, it’s absolutely teeming with deep red and black cherry, yogurt, boysenberry, with hints of cinnamon, vanilla, and toast. Slight rose aroma too. The palate gives more earth than the nose implies, with turned soil and mushroom notes neck and neck with the red and black fruits. Silky on the palate, with a firm structure of grippy tannins and an acidic backbone that will usher this for a long stretch in the cellar. A gorgeous wine, perhaps the finest of this auction lineup, it will cellar nicely for 15 years or more.

From volcanic Nekia/Jory soils, this Pinot from winemaker Scott Sabbadini was harvested starting on September 16. It shows sweet strawberry fruit on the nose, with peach yogurt, dried mushroom, and black tea. On the palate, a fine balance of supple fruit and acid tension, with a vibrant finish that fades slowly on the tongue. It should evolve nicely for 8-10 years.

From Washington vintner Drew Bledsoe and winemaker Josh McDaniels, this comes from clone 667 Pinot planted in red volcanic Nekia soils at the Coulee estate. It’s got silky aromas of red fruit dressed in ample oak, with notes of cedar, cinnamon, and violet. Nice mouthfilling body, with lots of red fruit that fades a bit quicker than expected. A pleasant wine, not a life-changer.

Powerful concentration in the glass, with nice red fruit on the nose, accented by a healthy dose of French oak, vanilla, and baking spice. The wine is silky and full on entry, with red fruit and oak influence. Toasted notes on the finish, and tannins that arrive and fade a bit quickly. This wine will really benefit from some time-won integration. Drink over the next 8 years.

Made from Swan, Wädenswil, Pommard, Calera, Mt. Eden, and 115 clones of Pinot grown in volcanic soil, this comes from the legendary vintner Robert Brittan. It shows a bit of reduction on the nose, on top of cherry, ripe strawberry, and tomato leaf. Stout oak notes. Nice rich fruit on the palate, quickly overtaken by bright acidity and oak. This wine has potential, it just needs some time to integrate. Great one to try in five years and keep for a decade.

Put forth as an homage to the pioneering vignerons of the Willamette Valley, this biodynamically grown Pinot from winemaker Gilles de Domingo shows a deep concentration in the glass. Red and black fruits on the nose, with baking spice, rose petals, and nothing out of place. On the palate, the fruit is accented by a hint of espresso and leather, with a stout tannic frame that ever so slightly outmuscles the fruit. Still, this is an excellent wine bound for a long life in the cellar.