Spirit Reviews

94

Grande Absente, France, 138 Proof ($80)

With the addition of wormwood, this base of beet neutral spirits and an array of botanicals displays aromas of lime, licorice, and green tomato. Mouthcoating and unctuous, with flavors of Key lime surround a heady fennel influence. Herbal components integrate well, and the texture is pure luxury.

93

Heimat New York Black Currant Liqueur ($29)

This liqueur offers a pure aromatic expression of the fruit, accented in pie crust for a full berry pie effect. Tart, tangy and just-enough sweet, it is made from a woman-owned, independently operated producer based in New York that sources from area farmers. Fantastic on its own or in a range of cocktails, it’ll also be splendid mixed with Champagne or seltzer.

90

Heimat New York Bosc Pear Liqueur ($29)

Dark pink-gold in color, this tastes very much of pear, but also of apple and cherry. Smooth, approachable and balanced, it is made using third-generation techniques and recipes from locally sourced fruit.

93

Highclere Castle Gin ($30)

Botanicals from the castle’s herb gardens account for much of this London Dry Gin. Floral notes on the nose include lavender, peach blossom, and a rush of chervil. Juniper is present on the palate, but is reined in with a silky mouthfeel. Coriander, melon, and white raspberry notes are evident, with a twist of lime and tangerine peel.

98

Juliette Heirloom Peach Liqueur ($50)

This exquisitely produced and packaged liqueur is made from Rhône Valley–grown peaches and would be an ideal mixer with Champagne. Its divine aromatics are irresistible in their peach-and-wildflower purity, and it’s balanced and refreshing on the palate. 32 proof.

90

Pennsylvania Dutch Peaches & Cream Liqueur ($17)

With a milkshake-like texture, this 25-proof liqueur is made with rum and dairy cream. It is smooth and rich in peach flavor without being overwhelming or cloying.

92

Rolling Fork Rum, Barbados 112 proof ($85)

Pot- and column stilled at Foursquare Distillery in Barbados and aged nine years, this single cask rum shows its prowess with tobacco, black pepper, and smoky oak. It’s unabashedly high-proof cask strength is a mighty force, yet still allows dried fruits and toasted coconut to shine through.

94

Santaleza Tequila Blanco, Mexico, 80 proof ($60)

From one of the oldest tequila families in Mexico, the Lopez-Villareal family, of San Matias fame, the ancestral distillation process blends a 135-year-old tahona passed down in the family with an innovative mechanical donkey. Aromas of ginger, jasmine, and melon grace the glass. The palate is round and pillow soft. A stream of lime zest and a spark of white pepper allow the mature agave to shine through.