Wine Reviews

99

Clos du Val 2022 Yettalil, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($200)

A wine made to evolve in the glass, this wine speaks to its surroundings, for its quality, style, and lush texture. It starts with aromas of blueberry-accented lavender and moves to silky tannins with a wink at dusty garrigue. Juicy, soft, and broad, with a line of espresso in between its layers.

96

Clos du Val 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

A stunner with this new release, grapes are sourced from Yountville, Stags Leap District, and other prestigious Napa sites. Aromas of just-baked blueberry pie waft from the glass. The satin mouthfeel is lined with dark chocolate-violet graininess. With a perfection of balanced ripeness, the wine demonstrates structure along with a vivid acidity.

95

Clos du Val 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($55)

Hand-picked fruit is fermented in 1/3 neutral barrels, 1/3 new barrels and 1/3 stainless steel. “The Sauvignon grapes are happy in barrels,” notes winemaker Carmel Greenberg. Additionally, the wine spent six months on its lees and then was blended before bottling. Aromas of tarragon and dill are fresh and invigorating. The use of some Sémillon adds notes of nectarine blossom that softens the tart nature of lemon rind. A Sauvignon Blanc with some weight is successful when it also shows vibrancy, as does this expressive white.

90

Cloud Break 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($10)

Bold and broad, with espresso, bittersweet dark chocolate, and blackberry. Sandalwood and brown-sugared walnuts are expressive on the long finish.

92

Cloud Break 2023 Pinot Noir, California ($10)

Sage and sweet tobacco connect with dried roses and black cherry. This savory Pinot Noir over-delivers on quality with its complex layers and textures.

89

Cloud Break 2024 Chardonnay, California ($10)

Bright, tart citrus notes with a touch of salinity excite the palate. Balanced notes of lime sorbet and white tea flowers exhibit a charming demeanor.

95

Crocus 2020 Le Calcifère, Malbec de Cahors, France ($45)

High limestone content affects the mouthfeel but defies astringency through blackberry gelée and a creamy undertone. Austere and sturdy, yet seamless across the palate, with a parade of black olive, licorice, and graphite. Utmost elegance is achieved, and blue floral tones offer the path to a long finish.

93

Crocus 2021 L’Atelier, Malbec de Cahors, France ($20)

A partnership between Paul Hobbs and Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux, this is an exceptional red. Attached to a mineral base are young, dusty violets, graced with an inky, concentrated tone – almost herbal – with added notes of fennel and oregano. Boysenberry flavors black strap molasses, sweetening, but not altering, the verve of the wine’s backbone.