Wine Reviews

93

Domaine de Fabregues 2021 Le Mas Red, AOP Languedoc ($40)

A blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 5% Cinsault, this offers ripe fruit aromas and flavors intertwined with earthy, leathery accents. Nearly full-bodied and fully mature, it may seem a bit rustic to some tasters, but will endear itself to lovers of Old World wines crafted in a Mediterranean style.

96

Domaine de Fabregues 2022 Le Coeur, Red Blend, Pezenas, Languedoc ($45)

A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Carignan, this is more flavorful and complex than many Rhône wines costing considerably more. Truly full-bodied but neither over ripened, oaked, or extracted, this is very impactful on the palate without being overbearing. Fruit notes recalling dark berries and cherries are accented with undertones of spices and wild herbs, and are firmed by abundant but fine-grained tannins. Very impressive.

93

Domaine Lumineux 2022 Cuvee Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, OR ($48)

Tasting soil and barely ripened cherries, this wine reveals an old-world claim to acidity and texture. Rose petals and hibiscus notes add layers to bright red fruit tones. Juicy, with a spiced cedar-cinnamon finish.

95

Domaine Lumineux 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, OR ($78)

This single-vineyard Pinot Noir exhibits brilliant gem tones, highlighted by iron-kissed pomegranate, clove, and sassafras. Taste the earth, steeped in Rooibos tea and tomato broth. Fascinating flavors abound.

92

Doña Paula 2024 Battle Axe Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($19)

Despite its aggressive name, this is not a “bruiser” of an Argentine Malbec but rather a tasteful charmer. Medium-bodied, it features mostly red toned fruit notes with spicy accents, modest alcohol, fresh acidity, and fine-grained tannins. Unlike many category counterparts that impress initially but prove tiring to drink, this is enduringly inviting and quite versatile with foods of differing robustness levels.

96

Dutton Estate 2023 Karmen Isabella Pinot Noir, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($50)

Concentrated berries unite in harmony along a path of garrigue and white-peppered cherry cola. Sumptuous and deep, with a juicy, high-toned acidity that continues to refresh with each sip. Exotic spices linger on the long finish, punctuated by violets and toasty oak. Kudos to the family’s sixth generation of the Duttons for farming and winemaking.

93

Dutton Estate 2023 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Use of the Musqué clone adds aromas and flavors of orange blossom and nectarine. Basil-kissed red grapefruit is lyrical and bright, while pineapple and vanilla-oak are resoundingly crisp, with a flow of creamy marzipan on the finish.

95

Dutton Estate 2023 Kyndall’s Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($45)

Over 80 vineyards are cultivated at Dutton Ranch, and this white is sourced from three estate vineyards, each with its own microclimate. Fermentation occurs in concrete eggs, oak barrels, and stainless steel, and aged in 40% new French oak and concrete eggs. Green apple and apricot greet the nose, while sunshine-lathered lemon curd, pineapple upside down cake and vanilla permeate the palate. Mid-point salinity and hazelnut adds depth and pizzazz to the boundless finish.