Wine Reviews

93

Substance 2022 Cs Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($17)

Tobacco and wet slate indicate a robust, broad-shouldered red. Toasted oak and blackberry are at its core.

93

Substance 2022 Pn Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, WA ($17)

Winemaker Charles Smith over-delivers for this deeply resonant red. Black cherries and tobacco leaf send that message of substance, followed by balanced acidity. Finishes with dark chocolate and toasted almond cedar.

93

Substance 2022 Rb Red Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington ($17)

Generous flavors of black cherry, plum, violets, and dark chocolate settle on suede-coated tannins. Rich and seductive.

93

Substance 2022 Sb Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($17)

Full of promise, the wine opens with white flowers, jasmine rice, and lime blossoms. It’s like taking a bite into a Gala apple, with a juicy clean finish.

90

Substance 2024 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, WA ($17)

A light and lively, red-fruited pink sipper grounded by a subtle earthiness. Tart cherry blends with cocoa to help express Columbia Valley soil.

96

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2023 Esprit de Tablas, Adelaida District, Paso Robles ($75)

The winery’s flagship blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and some Cinsault, Vaccarèse, and Counoise, propagated from budwood cuttings from the Château de Beaucastel estate in the Rhône Valley. Chocolate cherries steeped in red tea is a first impression of this stunner. Beef broth has a line of salty chalkiness running through, obliging the juicy liquid to perform gracefully. Fennel, sage, Bay leaves, and basil take on the role of California garrigue, with a finish of spiced plum.

94

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2023 Mourvèdre, Adelaida District, Paso Robles ($55)

Balanced and meaty, with herbal tones weaving into roasted coffee, garrigue, and dark red fruit. An expressive, brooding red, with cedar and black plum on mid-palate. Notes of slate, saddle leather, and dark chocolate develop on the long finish.

95

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2023 Syrah, Adelaida District, Paso Robles ($55)

Reminiscent of a Northern Rhône style, this beefy red exhibits muscular tannins, but remains poised and focused throughout. Chalky, with a whisper of cured meats and anise. Espresso, sage, and black plum make for a savory and indulgent red.