GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

94

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Flora Marie Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($78)

Spending eight months in (40% new) French oak followed by three months in stainless steel, this Montrachet clone Chardonnay goes to show that succulence and sophistication aren’t mutually exclusive. Compelling aromas of golden apple, dried fig, and shortbread lead the way to a medium body that introduces quince and a soupçon of saffron to the mix; lime leaf unfurls en route to the long, peach-tinged finish.

92

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Next Door Neighbor Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($68) 

Aged for 11 months in (33% new) French oak, this Old Wente clone Chardonnay is as soft and smooth as could be for all its spice. Entwined with linden flower, vanilla- and nutmeg-sprinkled scents of young pineapple and pear reconvene fluently on the palate with a dollop of lime curd.

96

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, El Diablo Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($110)

Cinnamon red hots and spiced cedar ramp up the assertiveness of El Diablo himself. Thanks to a lithe mouthfeel and stirringly high-toned acidity, ripe red cherries and tomato leaf open the gates for a streamlined elegance. The earthy finish is perked up by salty cranberries.

98

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Heritage Block, Vineyard Eleven, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($90)

Designed with focus and finesse. Rhubarb and cranberry meet up with basil and cherry pipe tobacco. There’s some tension between the lines – it’s a glorious tightly woven texture like suede chaps – with a salty mineral finish.

97

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Middle Reach Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($78)

Cranberry and ripe cherry shine, thanks to crunchy acidity and a seasoning of Mediterranean herbs. Bright and poised, with rose petals steeped in red tea with an earthy, tilled soil finish.

93

Domaine de la Rivière 2025 Shoshana Rosé, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($40) 

Though this estate-grown rosé made from 100% Pommard clone Pinot Noir appears extremely pale in the glass, its profile is plenty colorful. On the nose, wild strawberry and grilled lemon are strewn with florals like lilac and apple blossom before a hint of petrichor emerges, setting the tone for a limpid palate of more strawberry, spiced red apple, and ruby grapefruit. However delicate, minerality gives the supple texture an edge, as does a touch of white tea on the finish.

93

Double Canyon 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($30)

Suede-lined tannins elevate the experience of melting dark chocolate, fennel, graphite, and Worcestershire sauce. Juicy boysenberry is a mid-palate stunner, rich and generous to the finish. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah, aged for 10 months in mostly American oak, from vineyards in Walla Walla and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs.

98

Dylan’s Ghost 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($130)

Velvet-lined, charismatic red with licorice, dried violets, and umami. Bold with a regal presence, supple tannins unfolding gracefully. Sumptuous black fruit enters mid-point drenched in sweet soil.