Wine Reviews

95

Domaine Anderson 2022 Fairhills Vineyard Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County ($50)

Spontaneously fermented in (60% new) oak followed by ten months of barrel aging and five more in stainless steel, this just-plain-delicious wine hails from a certified-organic block in one of Domaine Anderson’s coolest estate sites. Vibrant scents of lemon curd and pear are oh-so-subtly tinged with salt-flecked fresh corn and just-ripe pineapple, while golden apple pops up with sprightly acidity on the slightly creamy palate before brûléed grapefruit invites another sip.

95

Domaine Anderson 2022 Walraven Vineyard Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County ($50)

Following an alluring nose of pear-hazelnut crumble, ripe honeydew melon, and grapefruit peel, this wine from a certified-organic and -biodynamic vineyard performs a remarkable balancing act between crunchy pear and creamy lime curd on a palate that’s gorgeously textured, almost sculpted, by round acidity and a long, chalk-dusted finish.

93

Domaine de Durban 2023 AOC Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Rhône Valley, France ($30)

Golden baked apple and opulent flavors of candied pineapple, honeysuckle balances the indulgence of a hedonistic nectar with the freshness of its satisfying finish.

94

Domaine Della 2023 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($72)

Amplified notes of spiced cherries in clove and rosemary are brightened by a keen acidity. Hibiscus and peonies are sweetened by vanilla and red licorice. Earthy cranberry fills the mouth on the juicy, expansive finish.

94

Domaine Della 2023 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75)

With a stint of 15 months in (55% new) French oak, expressive flavors of an earthy wine cave come to mind. Wild strawberry, leather, and molasses mark this juicy red, seasoned with cinnamon and white pepper. A hint of iron and cured meats acknowledge a savory persona with a side of minerality.

94

Domaine des Bernardins 2024 AOC Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Rhône Valley, France ($30)

This vin doux shows peach and apricot nectar, with floral tones of gardenia. Honeyed pralines ascend upon tangerine blossom on the finish.

94

Drylands 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($19)

Established in 1980, Drylands was very near the tip of the spear when Marlborough Sauvignon pierced its way to global acclaim. This 2025 is intense but not overbearing or overly pungent, and refreshingly dry but neither too tart nor too austere. Citrus notes of lime and grapefruit are intertwined with a riper tropical note, and briny minerality lends excellent complexity in the finish.

90

Eccentric 2024 Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina ($12)

Dense and rustic, with tobacco-laced cedar. Bold notes of cassis and tobacco, with blackberry liqueur sweetening the palate on the finish.