Wine Reviews

96

Davis Bynum 2023 Rochioli Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($85)

It was Davis Bynum who produced the first single-vineyard Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, and the fruit came from Rochioli Vineyard. This release celebrates the 50th anniversary of that release. Lip-smacking tannins deliver a rich, savory soul, with an inner light achieved through its ethereal, exotic notes of jasmine, peony, rhubarb, and raspberry. Notes of parchment, red sweet beets, and wet stone are an ode to its distinguished terroir.

92

Dellatorri 2024 Chianti DOCG, Tuscany, Italy ($17)

Bright notes of Amarena cherries, a sprinkle of white pepper, with the allure of vanilla, oregano, and basil. Acidity brings a vividness to the finish.

92

DeLoach 2024 Chardonnay, CA ($16)

This certified sustainably grown Chardonnay exhibits a spritely acidity. White pepper perks up green apple, lemon curd, and vanilla oak. The bottle weighs 410 grams, 25% lighter packaging, and the bottle is without a capsule, making it 100% recyclable.

93

DeMont 2024 Rosé, Coteaux Varois en Provence, France ($10)

This pink sipper tastes like a wine three times its price. Wild strawberries, cantaloupe, and rose petals are luscious. Framed by sweet herbal notes, the textural levity is underscored by a clean, stone mineral tone and balanced acidity.

93

Dial Tone 2024 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County ($25)

Peaches and lemon blossoms are glorious flavors, with sunshine pouring in for clarity and verve. Modern, fresh, and clean.

93

Domaine Anderson 2022 Dach Vineyard Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County ($55)

Notes of lemon confit and almond shortbread sprinkled with elderflower and salt make for a confident, sunny yet characteristically refined expression of Anderson Valley Chardonnay. Mouth-filling acidity and a gliding texture accented by green pear, donut peach, and orange carry through to the notably fresh finish.

94

Domaine Anderson 2022 Estate Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County ($40)

Aged 10 months in (21% new) French oak, this wine shows polish and complexity well beyond its price point. On the nose, russet apple and bruised peach ring clear with equally precise hints of honeyed pine nut, toast point, and even Chinese five-spice and basil; on the palate, more peach coincides with orange-zested green olive and a slightly woodsy note. Somewhat waxy in texture, it strikes a winning balance between luxuriousness and savoriness.

95

Domaine Anderson 2022 Estate Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino Co. ($55)

Spice is nice and this red is “jam”-packed with wild strawberry and cherry. Oregano, clove, and cinnamon are enveloped by soil notes, earmarked with roasted coffee and fennel. A burst of acidity and a line of salinity form on the lengthy finish.