Wine Reviews

99

As One Cru 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($175)

Deep and brooding, its melted chocolate cedar-raspberry center drapes across the palate. Rich and inviting, with well-groomed tannins wrapped in silk scarves.

96

As One Cru 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($175)

Spiced sandalwood and blackberry purr, a more energetic vintage than the ’16 with the agility of a stalking feline. Tannins are dry and chalky, but approachable, lengthening savory notes of tobacco, licorice, bittersweet dark chocolate, and umami.

99

As One Cru 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($175)

I first tasted this in 2023, the wine was aged in 100% new French oak for three years, and a year in bottle. Tasting it again, the arousing aromas of roasted coffee beans and crushed blackberries revive the senses. Its former grip has lightened up, but the tannins remain broad and giving, thanks to its intensity and ripeness of fruit. Dried violets and Black Forest cake notes are sumptuous and lengthens the finish with grace.

91

Benziger Family Winery 2023 Pinot Noir, CA ($20)

Cranberry and tobacco are weaved together with smooth tannins. Acidity is bright, with clove and cinnamon-kissed woodsy tones.

98

Brassfield 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, High Valley Appellation, Lake County ($105)

Aromas of blackberry and dark chocolate are intriguing. Satin-lined tannins offer a hint at chalky, volcanic minerality, with a backbone that carries the liquid on a smooth pathway. Black cherry, fig, and beef broth adds a juicy glossiness, bathing the palate with white chocolate cedar and dusted blueberries on the finish.

93

Bread & Butter 2024 Pinot Grigio, CA ($15)

Jasmine and ginger season notes of pineapple and lime rind. Perky acidity refreshes, while stone fruit softens the linear mineral notes on the finish. Lovely!

94

Chalone 2024 Estate Pinot Noir, Chalone AVA, Monterey County ($40)

Rose petals glaze over Morello cherries with a gelée seasoned with cinnamon and savory, meaty aspic. Hints of Bay leaves and umami center on the palate, with a satin-lined mouthfeel.

92

Charles Woodson’s 2023 Intercept Pinot Noir, Monterey County ($20)

Aged with 15-20% new oak, this bold and concentrated red delivers notes of soil, raspberries, and ripe black currants. Tannins are silky, with a lining of white pepper. Sandalwood is seasoned with sweet tobacco on the long finish.