Wine Reviews

90

Cafe de Paris Brut Rose, Sparkling Wine, France ($17)

Sun-warmed raspberry suffuses this blend of Colombard, Gamay, and Chardonnay, mingling on the nose with red apple, watermelon, and a dab of white pepper before descending on the bright, fleshy palate amid notes of pink grapefruit, lime, and rose.

90

Cafe de Paris Brut Sparkling Wine, Blanc de Blancs, France ($17)

Sunny aromas and flavors of yellow apple, pear, and sweet citrus mix with light white florals and honeydew in this friendly blend of Colombard and Chardonnay, refreshed by a touch of cucumber on the clean finish.

91

Cafe de Paris Sparkling Wine, Organic Grapes, France ($17)

Befitting the brand name, this certified-organic blend of Colombard, Chardonnay, and Macabeo would indeed be just the thing for an al fresco interlude. Bright apple and lemon dominate on both the nose—sprinkled with hints of green melon and almond blossom—and the bouncy, juicy palate, where spring herbs alight to balance the fruit.

93

Calmel & Joseph 2020 Les Elmes, AOP Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($50)

Dark chocolate and roasted coffee are attached to grilled meats, cigar leaf, and tilled soil. Both sumptuous and sleek, with rich notes of plum pudding for a texturized mouthfeel.

93

Calmel & Joseph 2022 Le Saint Festin, Les Crus, AOP St Chinian, France ($39)

Aromas of pear and hazelnut are noteworthy for this blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Rolle, and Viognier. Intense flavors of baked apple, cinnamon, and a yeasty brioche form a nectar-like weight on the palate. A pinch of salty hazelnut and nectarine leaves a thrill on the finish

91

Campo alla Sughera 2021 Adèo, Bolgheri Rosso, IGT Toscana, Italy ($50)

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot spend 12 months in oak and six months in bottle. Italian herbs, pecan, and roasted coffee bean are at the forefront. Plum notes are ripe, matched with violets and cigar leaf. Takes time to open up.

95

Campo alla Sughera, 2020 IGT Toscana Rosso, Italy ($125)

A blend of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak and 18 months in barrel. A masterpiece on the palate painted with suede. Boysenberry, licorice, and dried violets are well illustrated flavors.

94

Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2018 Sacrantino, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, Umbria ($68)

This intense wine possesses a fleshy body with teeth-gripping plum skin tannins. Stature and status are equal – a fine representative of this violet charmer. Soy sauce, new leather, and black olive follow a savory path to the finish.