Wine Reviews

93

Salvestrin 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($39)

Sourced from the Crystal Springs and Laurent Vineyards within Napa’s St. Helena appellation. Aged in both stainless steel and neutral oak, it hits the sweet spot between the grassy, herbal, and citrus-driven side of the variety. Its softer, broader profile is reminiscent of ripe pear and honeydew melon.

93

Sanford 2022 Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($48)

Whole cluster pressed and fermented in French oak, it delivers indulgent notes of lemon bar, honeyed pear, lychee, and gardenia. The richness is reined in and the wine is impeccably balanced.

94

Sanford 2022 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($56)

From two iconic vineyards: La Rinconada and Sanford & Benedict, this 11-month French-oak aged red speaks to fresh earth, bright cherry, and a pinch of white pepper. A cascade of red flowers, Rooibos tea, and cinnamon hots add to its graceful charm.

91

Schug 2022 Chardonnay, Carneros “Estate Grown,” Sonoma Coast ($54)

Toasty brioche and lemon verbena are elegantly placed between a noticeable salinity and a fine acidity. Crème brulée and mango play a role on the spicy finish.

92

Schug 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Coast ($30)

Notes of linen, grapefruit zest, and laurel create a tartness on the palate. Striking acidity and a lemon blossom sweetness adds to its appealing character.

90

Screen Door Cellars 2021 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($40)

Pale, youthful appearance, impressive range of aroma, stone fruit, pear, citrus, vanilla, and smoky oak. Beautiful integration on palate, ripe fruit, round, and creamy, with a round character. Ample acidity to provide lift and freshness with good length.

92

Screen Door Cellars 2022 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($50)

Medium deep, crimson color, impeccable aroma of cherry compote, pomegranate and savory spice. Fine purity and intensity with ample weight on the palate. Balanced, nuanced, round, and enough acidity to keep it lifted on the palate. An extremely inviting style with a refined, elegant finish.

96

Sea Smoke 2021 Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($90)

Growing and making Chardonnay that is at once very complex and tightly coherent even its youth is very challenging, and few efforts succeed at the level resulting in this wine. Both orchard and tropical fruit notes are so well balanced that neither has an edge over the other, and acidity and oak are so deftly integrated that they are easier to infer from the wine’s overall character than sensed as distinct elements. Compellingly delicious now, it will be better still in five years and may yet improve after that.