Wine Reviews

97

Sea Smoke Estate, 2021 Southing Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($95)

Very expressive in both aroma and flavor, with full body and very deep flavors, this takes a stab at answering the question, how “big” can a wine can be and still really taste like Pinot Noir? The answer it offers is very big, if the fruit is extremely pure and is structured with fresh acidity, very fine-grained tannins, and a measured dose of high-class oak. This achieves an extraordinary sort of delicacy on a grand scale.

91

Seaglass 2023 Alcohol-Removed Pinot Grigio, Central Coast ($13)

A lovely perfume of peaches, lemon verbena, and wet stone. A plump mouthfeel adds body to flavors of quince, tangerine, and lychee. Refreshing, crisp, and lively.

90

Seaglass 2023 Alcohol-Removed Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($13)

Desirable aromatics of grapefruit, sea-salted apples, with a tart flavor profile. Ethereal notes of candied kiwi, honeysuckle, and honeydew are charming. Nine percent grape juice.

93

Sean Minor 2022 Signature Series Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($28)

The production techniques flowing into the finished product here are what one would expect in a Chardonnay costing at least $40. We are talking about 20% new French oak and laborious in monitoring malolactic fermentation barrel-by-barrel before stopping that process to retain bright acidity to counterbalance rich flavors. The result is highly complex in relation to selling price.

91

Sean Minor 2023 California Series Rosé of Pinot Noir, California ($18)

Fresh and tasty, this is made by a traditional method of bleeding juice from tanks with partially macerated Pinot Noir, with the remainder finished as red table wine. Aromas and flavors show delicious red fruit character while remaining reserved and light as befits a fine rosé.

94

Seven Oxen Estate Wines, 2018 Tannat, Paso Robles ($62)

From the cooler Templeton Gap sub-AVA, this dry-farmed, head-trained Tannat is ripe, with boysenberry opulence. Candied violets surge forward, slathered in chalky slate. Meaty body, with streamlined tannins, this well-crafted red carries a perfume that douses nose and palate.

91

Seven Oxen Estate Wines, 2019 Mourvèdre, Paso Robles ($58)

Grown on the estate’s limestone-rich vineyard that crosses Templeton Gap and Willow Creek sub-AVAs using organic and Biodynamic farming techniques. Aged in 100% neutral French oak for 18 months, this meaty and spicy red shows high-toned black cherry notes entwined with leather and chocolate. Slightly gamey, with a distinct mineral finish.

92

Sheridan Vineyard 2022 Boss Block Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley WA ($50)

A very soft and inviting rendition of Cabernet Franc, this shows just a slight, pleasant hint of dried herbs that provides a “tell” regarding the grape variety. The French oak used for aging was 50% new, but its prominence in the finished wine is admirably subtle, and the integration of spice, subtle toast, and fruit is excellent. Medium-bodied and very softly textured, this is a charmer.