Wine Reviews

95

PATEL 2021 Red Wine, Napa Valley ($75)

A soft but serious blend that shows the virtues of California’s 2021 North Coast vintage to great advantage, this is a blend of 60% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec. Very rich and ripe at a stated alcohol level of 14.9%, this nevertheless shows so much linear energy from intense mixed berry fruit that it never seems overblown or formless.

93

PATEL 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford, Napa Valley ($60)

This is distinctive in the context of current Napa Sauvignons by dint of its unapologetic embrace of the herbal and grassy character that this variety often shows if not tamped down. Nearly pungent in these respects immediately after the cork is pulled, it then shows some softer tropical fruit notes in addition to classic lime and lemon flavors. This offers a rather wild ride, which is welcome amidst so many domesticated renditions of the grape.

92

Peyrassol 2023 Reserve des Templiers Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($22)

Unusually generous for Provençal Rosé, this shows a soft bouquet at the outset, but then very ripe flavors recalling red berries. Fully medium-bodied, this is not in the wispy style that many wine lovers now associate with Provence Rosé. I once overheard someone bemoan that style by quipping, “I’d like some wine in my wine,” and that person would be very pleased by this release.

98

Pine Ridge 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($140)

Well-evolved tannins create a most inviting mouthfeel; creamy and graceful without an overtly dense presence. This remarkable red features boysenberry, new leather, white chocolate, and lavender with a foundation of spiced licorice. Captivating and generous.

93

Pine Ridge 2022 Traveler’s Series Cabernet Sauvignon, CA ($38)

The combination of sourcing from Solano County (41%), Sonoma (36%), and Napa counties (23%) explains the Travelers theme. Flavors of black plum and boysenberry are boosted with concentrated notes of coffee, soy sauce, and slate. Meaty and well-structured, it zips with white pepper and tobacco that cruises along with a toasty oak finish.

93

Pine Ridge Vineyards 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($70)

Majestic notes of black cherry-kissed oak are adorned with pecan and graphite. Streamlined, suede tannins create a lavish mouthfeel of rich, ripe boysenberry. Finishes with a white-peppered rush of dark chocolate latte.

93

Quilt 2022 Fabric of The Land Red Wine, Napa Valley ($35)

Creamy, with a fresh vanilla boysenberry profile. Mouth-watering, with cheek-grabbing tart plum and a lavender sweetness. Tannins are round and seamless.

96

Rhys 2021 Pinot Noir, Alpine Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains ($135)

Ten miles from the Pacific, this steep and rocky site features slopes that range up to 40 percent. Although blessed with a cool. maritime climate, Alpine does not get that windy. Chewy tannins are wrapped in blackberry, espresso, and woodsy tones. Juicy and regal, the wine seduces the palate with a well-developed, complex frame. Slate expands on licorice and Worcestershire, with a touch of mint on the satin-lined finish.