Wine Reviews

91

Jacques Dumont 2023 Vouvray, Loire Valley, France ($18)

Chenin Blanc from Vouvray can be a terrific crowd-pleaser, as in this instance. Faintly floral aromas get it off to an appealing start, and flavors of orchard fruits are enhanced by a faint streak of wild honey that is counterbalanced by refreshing acidity. Vouvray would be much more popular if consumers could tell in advance how sweet the wine would taste—and if more renditions were just slightly off-dry like this delicious and versatile rendition.

90

Jacques Dumont 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley I.G.P., France ($14)

As Sancerre has climbed in price it has touched off many searches for similarly styled Sauvignons from the broader Loire Valley. A warming climate has helped such searches become more successful, and the fruit profile in this delicious and refreshing wine does indeed mimic Sancerre, with grapefruit and lime flavors accented by aromas of dried herbs and freshly cut grass. It isn’t as mineral as fine Sancerre, but rings up for half the price.

94

Jordan 2022 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($42)

Lemon fresh, with a lit-from-within sunshine brilliance. The glossy mouthfeel offers ripe pear and fresh mango. Honeyed and floral in all its glory.

94

Jordan 2023 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($42)

Aromas: Ripe pear, mango, lemon blossom
Intense up front flavors with white-peppered lemon drop, sleek and lively. Crisp acidity brightens notes of elderflower, MacIntosh apple, and hazelnut. The mineral tone is crystal clean and clear on the finish.

91

Juggernaut 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20)

Scintillating aromas of grapefruit zest, rosemary, and dill are present. Bright and sun-shiny, grassy notes merge with passionfruit, candied pears for a vibrant finish.

96

Kay Brothers 2020 Block 6 Shiraz, Amery Vineyard, McLaren Vale, Australia ($120)

Kay Brothers was established in 1890 and is the oldest family-owned McLaren Vale winery. The grapes for this single vineyard Shiraz were grown on 128-year-old vines and matured for 20 months in 35% new French and American oak puncheons. A low 13.5% abv keeps its tremendous blockbuster power in check. Plum skin, teeth-grabbing tannins are insistent. Dusty violets, black cherry, and slate are amplified by a high-profile acid structure. Mid-palate notes of cured meats and black olive cruise along on its well-structured frame.

94

Kay Brothers 2020 Hillside Shiraz, Amery Vineyard, McLaren Vale, Australia ($60)

From Block 6 and Block 11 on the Amery Vineyards steeper slopes, this earthy red is aged 18 months in French and American oak. Big, spiced, and muscle-bound, with teeth-grabbing dark chocolate-covered tannins. Coffee bean and toasted oak bristle with black pepper, Italian herbs, black olive, and soy sauce.

90

Keepa 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile ($10)

Notes of earth and iron, with plum skin tannins are inviting and textural. Quality surpasses expectations for the price. It shows concentration and depth. Sage, black cherry, nutmeg and toasted cocoa come alive on the juicy finish.