Wine Reviews

99

Guarachi Family 2021 Meadowrock Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($200)

This is about as close to perfection as it gets from this small, growing vineyard high up on Atlas Peak. Aged 23 months in new French oak, the glassy mouthfeel is exercised with round, creamy notes of boysenberry and lavender, dressed in vanilla coating. Sweet tobacco and a hint of graphite are captured by a fine acidity level, adding great table manners to its pairing abilities. Heavenly.

96

Guarachi Family Wines 2022 Estate Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75 )

Aged 11 months in 100% French oak, iron-rich notes of earth and bramble are striking. Black cherry cream mouthfeel, with the texture of prickly pear send shock waves through mid-palate. Fruit comes from Guarachi’s Sun Chase Vineyard.

97

Guarachi Family Wines 2022 Heritage Pinot Noir, Sun Chase Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma Coast ($150 )

Amped by spiced cinnamon and nutmeg, with rich, ripe fruit that extends generously over the mouth. Red cherry and crushed cranberry, rose petals, and crunchy raspberry are sensational textures. The vineyard lies above the fog line, the strong winds causing skins to thicken, and in turn, smaller clusters reaching an optimum ripeness. Great acid structure and a finish of clean mineral notes.

93

Hanna 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($49)

An exquisite entry of melted chocolate cherry. Tannins possess an athletic prowess, with a muscular mouthfeel. Well balanced and rounded on the palate. Spiced cedar and purple plum are texturally satisfying on the finish

91

Hanna 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($20)

Zesty aromas of chervil, basil, and lime sorbet mirror notes on the palate. Salty pear and grapefruit zest are striking, with a racy acidity that leaves the mouthwatering on the crispy finish.

93

Harper’s Bench 2021 Pinot Noir, Riverview Vineyard, Monterey ($40)

The Riverview Vineyard is positioned on a geological bench overlooking the Salinas Valley, along the southwest edge of the Gabilan Range. Armed with rich soils and a maritime climate, this single vineyard Pinot Noir tastes of wild strawberry just picked from the earth. Freshness and vibrancy are built into this red, with rose petals and red tea tannins. High-toned acidity washes over spiced cherry vanilla on the finish.

92

Head High 2023 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($24)

From Sonoma County’s first ocean positive-climate neutral winery, the grapes are grown within close proximity to the Pacific. Brush strokes of lemon chiffon, brioche, and yellow apple are refined and saturate the palate with an unctuousness. A pinch of white pepper creates a spark and ignites a reaction of spiced oak and lime zest. Acidity is energetic.

92

Hectic 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($18)

Comprised of fruit from Gisborne in New Zealand’s North Island (70%) and Marlborough in the South Island (30%), this hits a very successful balance between edgy citrus notes and broader, more rounded suggestions of white melon. Expressively aromatic but not pungent, with acidity that is energetic but not sour thanks to a touch of balancing sweetness. Cleverly crafted and impressively complete.