Wine Reviews

95

Domaine Jonathan Pey 2022 Morgon “Bellevue,” Beaujolais, France ($34)

A sensational wine! A textbook example of Cru Beaujolais that displays a strong sense of place. Medium deep, violet color, wonderful purity and intensity with the aroma. Red fruit galore: dark cherry, red raspberry, savory spice, and ample weight on the palate. Bbeautifully ripe, seamlessly smooth, layered, nuanced, lifted acidity, impeccably balanced with some taunt, yet ripe tannins on the back palate. With about an hour of aeration, the range and intensity of the wine is magnified. It’ll age gracefully for another decade. Produced from low yield, high density, seventy-year-old vines from a raised elevation vineyard site. Not fined or filtered. A wine with “it factor”! Just over 3600 bottles produced.

91

Domaine Montrose 2023 Prestige Rose, IGP Côtes de Thongue, France ($19)

Youthful, pale pink appearance, very pure, with lifted red fruit of mandarin orange, and citrus zest aromas that carry through well to the palate. Medium bodied, with a nicely integrated textural component, and ample acidity to keep it fresh and vibrant on the palate. A moderately long, dry finish. Some lees aging lends volume and range. Produced from 85% Grenache, 15% Rolle.

89

Domaine Montrose 2023 Rose Mont Rose, IGP Pays d’Oc, France ($14)

Pale, youthful appearance, with a pretty, lifted, moderate intensity aroma of watermelon and red fruit notes. Distinct fruit notes, and possessing mid-weight on the palate, with good purity of fruit character. Moderate acidity level, and very well made in a simple, clean character with a dry finish. Produced from 30-to-50 year-old vines. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault.

92

Donati Family Vineyard 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($25)

Deep, well extracted color, exhibiting an appealing aroma of black fruit. Also flavors of black truffle, dark plum, and smoky oak show fine, ripe, intensity. Solidly structured, with balanced weight. Plenty of acidity to keep it lifted and showing soft character on the back palate. Well crafted, and immensely accessible and enjoyable. 14 months aged in oak.

90

Donati Family Vineyard 2020 Claret, Paso Robles ($19)

Deep, dense, well extracted, with a solid core, and wonderful lifted black and red fruit. Cocoa powder aromas are framed with well-integrated smokey oak. Full, weighty, very well balanced, possessing good acidity and harmonious, excellent intensity on the palate. Evident tannins, but with good ripeness. Spends 17 months in oak. Superb value.

91

East Side Crossing 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi ($22)

Well-built, with broad shoulders and supple tannins. Roasted coffee, dark chocolate, and black plum drape across the palate.

92

East Side Crossing 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Lodi ($20)

Plumped up with melon, pineapple, and honeyed peaches, this is one expressive white. Delicate floral tones echo mid-way, finishing with a mineral wash.

91

Elouan 2022 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($25)

Heather, boysenberry, and licorice wind up the palate with silky broad strokes of coffee and mocha. A fruit-filled red with a satisfying savory side.