Wine Reviews

92

Cline Cellars 2022 Eight Spur Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($25)

Super ripe, with bramble bundled in plum, licorice, and dried black cherry. Alert notes of cinnamon hots and a dab of soy sauce add to its zesty finish.

90

Cult 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, CA ($19)

Red wines in a notably ripe, soft, faintly sweet style have indeed cultivated something akin to a cult following in recent years, making this seem aptly named. That’s good news for this release in commercial terms, but for buyers, the bonus is that it shows true Cabernet character with blackberry and black cherry fruit, and that the finish is marked more by these varietal characteristics than ripe sweetness.

94

Cuvaison 2022 Kite Tail Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($70)

From the Napa-green certified Tai Estate Vineyard, named for the winery’s founder, Alexander Tai Schmidheiny, comes this captivating, barrel-and stainless-steel aged small lot white. Fleshy and sturdy with pronounced flavors of brown butter, nectarine, and lemon bar. Jasmine and wet stone chime in, adding depth to an outstanding vintage.

94

Cuvaison 2022 Pinot Noir Début Cru, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($80)

Already established as a great vintage in Carneros, this ’22 is made from heirloom clones and is the winery’s first estate-grown Pinot Noir of each year. Both savory and high-pitched tonally, with earth and spice, this wine shows extraction in its generous fruit. Autumn leaves, Pekoe tea, raspberry, and white cherry ready the palate with brush strokes both silky and graceful.

89

Danica 2023 Rose, Provence, France ($25)

Pale, youthful color, bright, fresh, with strawberry and cherry fruit notes. Moderate intensity, good purity, refreshing, with lifted acidity. pleasant, light, bright, soundly made. 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Caladoc.

94

Davis Bynum 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

East Russian River Valley meets westside, spanning four prestigious vineyards and utilizing five clones, for a Pinot Noir that captured our attention. Aromas of cherry bark and sandalwood lead to layers of unique flavors.
Hibiscus, prickly pear, cherry tomato, and cranberry are remarkably fresh. Underscores of coffee and toasted oak, with a generous stream of silky cocoa glide along the palate. A well-balanced red with keen acidity and an inherent ripeness.

94

Dival Cotel NV Champagne, France ($55)

Summer turns to autumn on the nose of this Meunier-dominant Champagne (with 30% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, and upwards of 35% reserve wine) as lovely, ripe orchard fruits sprinkled with cinnamon and vanilla spice rise up to meet peach and lime curd. Flavors follow suit on the glossy-textured palate, which is concentrated, pure, and delightfully tangy toward the finish.

90

Dolum Estates 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($42)

Tightly wound, youthful red with notes of black pepper and espresso. Ripe and robust, with herbal notes dotted across blackberry.