GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

92

Smith Bench 2022 Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County ($20)

A well-defined, oaky, beautifully balanced Chardonnay. Cinnamon-vanilla and nutmeg play in tune. This is a bright, sunshine-filled white that fields rich notes of pineapple upside-down cake and a gleam of yellow flowers.

95

Smith-Madrone 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, Napa ($65)

Grapes grown on a non-tilled, steep, dry-farmed mountain vineyard create a plush blend of 81.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.7% Cab Franc, and a fraction of Merlot. Aged 18 months in 65% new French oak, it shows black peppered dark plum, green bell pepper, sage, and mint for a spice box of flavor. At mid-point, blue fruit emerges with a noticeable creamy vibrancy and finishes with intensity.

96

Sonsierra 2018 El Rincón de Los Galos, Rioja DOC, Spain ($82)

A sensational single vineyard 100% Tempranillo, dramatic and dry. With tension and a slight grip, one tastes roses bathed in earthy, chocolate-coffee. Vibrant Luxardo cherries surge with a juiciness that cleanse the palate, with great acid structure that makes this a star when it comes to food-pairing. Its high elevation vineyard accounts for the wine’s intense nature.

90

Sonsierra 2019 Reserva, Rioja DOC ($13)

Blackberry and tobacco spread across the palate. This is a finely structured 100% Tempranillo that possesses a buoyant mouthfeel. Jammy fruit is intense and pleasing, adding dimension.

88

Sonsierra 2020 Crianza, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain ($8)

A value-plus, 100% Tempranillo, with notes of blueberry jelly and dusty baking spices. Tobacco and black tea meld with plum for an impactful finish.

89

Sonsierra 2023 Barrel-Fermented Viura, Rioja Alta, Rioja DOC, Spain ($9)

Nutty, with spiced vanilla sandalwood. The mouthfeel is unctuous, with a slick lather of lemon oil. Honeyed flowers are dotted with white pepper for a zesty finish.

90

Stel + Mar 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($20)

Aged three months in French and American oak and with a low abv of 12.7%, Winemaker Philip Zorn urges out bright, juicy fruit that flirts with the palate. A chorus of cranberry, just-ripened cherries, cocoa, and plum merges, with a spirited cinnamon finish.

89

Submission 2023 Chardonnay, California ($20)

Domestic Chardonnay that rings up very close to $20 seems like a rather crowded category these days, which suggests both popularity and sharp-elbowed competition. This competes well with good physical density and rich flavors recalling stone fruits along with a tropical note. Wood accents of spices and light smoke provide complexity that will help this stand out in a crowd.