GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

89

Trapiche 2025 Malbec, Argentina ($8)

Meaty, with boysenberry and bristly herbs. Juicy and delicious.

92

Très Très Pas 2024 Mal Graves Blanc,Graves, Bordeaux ($25

The brand name translates as “very very not bad,” which is a charmingly quirky understatement for a wine of equally quirky charm. The unoaked blend of 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon isn’t shy, as musky notes of boxwood mingle with greener ones of apple and pear as well as flickers of tropical fruit like mango and pineapple. But neither is it overblown, striking a balance between crispness and midpalate weight, a suggestion of almond and a lemony finish. What fun.

93

Trione 2022 Henry’s Blend, Red Bordeaux Blenc, Alexander Valley ($60)

This is an interesting Bordeaux-style blend that shows impressive overall complexity and balance. With 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 19% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec, it displays structural firmness and significant oak buffered by a soft mid-palate and lingering fruit sweetness.

93

Trione 2023 Chardonnay, River Road Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($38)

Full-bore Chardonnays need to be this good when consumer tastes are edging toward leaner renditions of the variety. Notable wood spice and a whiff of vanilla aren’t overblown but do lend complexity to mostly orchard fruit flavors, with substance and depth but no unbalanced heaviness.

93

Unánime by Mascota Vineyards 2024 Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina ($26)

Earthy, its wiry frame uplifted by lively acidity and a sleek mouthfeel. Just-ripened cherries and plum skin tannins tangle for a sensational textural experience.

89

Union Wine Co. 2023 Adventure Pinot Noir, Oregon ($14)

Tobacco and roses dusted with cocoa powder dive into an earthy core. Raspberries and cinnamon are subtle, yet charming notes.

90

Union Wine Co. 2025 Underwood Rose, Oregon ($14)

Freshness is apparent here, with peaches, melon, and white flowers. Acidity is well defined for a crisp finish.

93

Unsanctioned 2025 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($20)

With the addition of 9% Sauvignon Blanc, this stainless steel–fermented Pinot Gris pours on the charm. Enhancing a heady perfume of citrus such as yuzu, herbs including lemon basil and mint, and lemon blossom, lychee springs into action on a palate so buoyant it practically floats, laced with touches of white peach and other orchard fruits.