Wine Reviews

89

Sterling Vineyards 2022 Pinot Noir, California ($12)

This is an admirably light and fresh Pinot Noir; it doesn’t seem bulked up with oak. Subtle fruit notes recalling both red and black cherries as well as strawberries show nice purity that holds steady through the aftertaste, which is when some value Pinots often show their shortcomings.

89

Sterling Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($12)

This Cabernet Sauvignon succeeds on the strength of its honest simplicity, with pure fruit showing both black and red tones and just a bit of tannic grip in the finish.

89

Sterling Vintner’s Collection Brut, California ($17)

Primarily French Colombard and Chardonnay with a few other white varieties, this sparkler comports itself with a fresh, gently rounded style amid straightforward notes of applesauce, pear, lemon and lime curd, and honeyed peach.

96

Telmont Réserve de la Terre, Champagne, France ($96)

Composed of 44% Meunier, 34% Chardonnay, and 22% Pinot Noir, this extra-brut expression possesses clarity to spare. Following keen aromas of white flowers, honeyed lemon drop, and juicy pear, its nerve and verve are manifested by crystalline acidity; salt-streaked notes of Asian pear, green strawberry, green plum, and lime chiffon; and a finely wrought finish of Marcona almond and tangerine.

92

TEXTBOOK 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($27)

Winemaker Abigal Estrada worked under vintner Jonathan Pey to create this wine, with grapes sourced from several of Paso’s sub AVAs. She blended in some Petite Sirah, Merlot, and Syrah and it distinguishes itself with a lower (for Paso) abv of 13.9 percent. It’s ripe and ready, chalky and energetic. Plum, black currant, and rich vanilla create abundant character, while supple tannins are inviting and luxurious.

94

TEXTBOOK 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($46)

From lauded winemaker Jonathan Pey and winemaker Abigail Estrada, this is a most approachable, stylized Cab from Napa Valley. Blended with the four other Bordeaux varieties and aged for 16 months in 35% new French oak, the wine, at 14.1% abv is ripe and ready. Dark plum and mocha are elegantly framed within pleasingly playful tannins. The mouthfeel is round and sumptuous, and its overall balance is notable.

94

Trione Vineyards 2020 Pinot Noir, River Road Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($46)

Black cherry, black strap molasses, and its umami savory side combine for depth of character. Spiced cinnamon cedar has an earthy zip to it, while the juiciness of the wine develops with dates and tobacco. Aged 14 months in 100% French oak.

90

Trivento 2023 Maximum Red Blend Reserve, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)

With 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 50% Malbec, notes of cinnamon-cedar set the tone. Ripe red plum, clove, and toasty oak surge at mid-point. Tannins are sturdy, with high-toned acidity and a pop of black pepper on the finish.