Wine Reviews

97

Veuve Cliquot 2015 La Grande Dame Rosé, Reims, Champagne, France ($320)

) As always, the name fits: The 2015 vintage of this celebrated label, a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay (with 13% red wine), is at once statuesque, gracious, and vivacious. Coral pink in the glass, it smells of smoked cherry laced with beguiling traces of lavender, white pepper, and even Madras spice that inform its flavors of green and ripe strawberry, raspberry, blood orange, and red licorice, which in turn engage with luminous acidity within its shapely body. White truffle grazes the finish like fingertips.

93

Viñedos de Sonsierra 2018 Viñedo Viejo, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain ($31)

Leading with notes of sage, balsamic, black olive, and anise, this is a savory, earthy, old vine Tempranillo. Blackberry and black currant are surrounded by toasty oak. A fine backbone, good acid structure, and strength of character unite.

90

1000 Stories 2022 Bourbon-Barrel-Aged Zinfandel, California ($17)

Two stops short of becoming hedonistic, this 15.6% abv Zin gathers momentum by delivering a seductive entry. A just-right acidity level brightens blackberry, vanilla, and sweet tobacco. The textured, creamy  mouthfeel expands with a freshness that balances the finish of walnut and oak.

90

1000 Stories Wines 2022 Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($17)

Bourbon lovers tend to like a little hint of sweetness in their whiskey, and they’ll find a hint in this wine, regardless of whether it results from the bourbon barrels used for aging or the vinification of the ripe grapes behind the wine. Aside from that sweetness, there’s nothing overtly “boozy” about the wine, which is deeply flavorful and quite soft in texture, which will endear it to many tasters regardless of their relation to Bourbon.

91

69 Miles 2023 Chardonnay, Yolo County, CA ($20)

Toasty, rich vanilla aromas lead to more tempered flavors on the palate. Minerality rears up to claim a wash of creamy lemon meringue. The mouthfeel is clean and medium-weighted.

91

7 Deadly 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi ($20)

It isn’t as burly as many examples of Lodi Cabernet, and is well-structured and balanced, gaining approachability by way of its medium-bodied profile and finely woven integration of tannin and fruit. Time in bottle has helped with that, but the juice was clearly good from the outset, as time can’t cure all sins.

90

A3 2022 Red Blend, California ($10)

Blackberries, cherries, and blood orange make for an appealing, layered red. Tastes like a wine three times its sticker price. Finishes with a silky wash of cocoa, toasty oak, and dark berry tart.

90

A3 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($10)

Dark and shadowed, with supple tannins and a vivid, fleshy, fruity demeanor. Cedar and espresso are savory on the juicy finish.