Wine Reviews

90

Truth & Valor 2022 Pinot Noir, Paso Robles ($25)

Paso Robles might seem an unlikely source for stylishly restrained Pinot Noir, nor does the packaging make this look like a delicate Pinot, but this wine proves that appearances can be misleading. Bing cherry notes drive the aromas and flavors, with minimal oak and a generally unmanipulated character making this very appealing as well as versatile.

91

Truth & Valor 2022 Red Blend, Santa Margarita Ranch, Paso Robles ($30)

Comprised of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this blend is moderately ripe and not overly pushy despite 14.5% stated alcohol. It displays fruit notes recalling plums and blackberries, with modest wood lending subtle spice accents. Soft, rounded tannins provide a plush feel, but there’s enough structure for this to pair well with many foods.

95

Turnbull 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley ($110)

A combination of two estate vineyards: the steep mountainous Leopoldina and the volcanic, red soils of Fortuna, contribute to the complexity of this Oakville Cab. A flow of energy consumes the palate, with a generosity of blueberry and cassis. The wine exudes restrained power with notes of violets, graphite, and saddle leather.

94

Two Hands 2023 Gnarly Dudes Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia ($45)

Mature vines are behind the depth of color, flavor, and aromatics of this memorable red. Elegant, with blackberry liqueur that’s streamlined – not jammy. Cured meats, black tea, and violets create a savory complexity.

94

Two Hands 2023 Sexy Beast Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, Australia ($45)

Plumped with blackberry pie filling and white-peppered plum, this seductive, meaty Cab shows its savory side with notes of Hoisin sauce and espresso. Dark chocolate takes a dramatic turn, seasoned with Mediterranean scrub.

90

Valderrivo Roble 2023 Corazon del Duero, Ribera del Duero, Spain ($14)

Bold espresso, toasted oak and stony minerality strike the first chord. Ripe blackberry and Hoisin sauce convey depth with a savory side of black olive and tobacco.

95

Vantorosso 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Veneto, Italy ($80)

Mouth filling, full-bodied notes of balsamic, sandalwood, and graphite. Deeply layered, poignant, and majestic. Black pepper, figs, and Kalamata olive add an earthy, dusty character.

93

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label, Reims, Champagne, France ($62)

At a glance, the iconic yellow label connotes and invites celebration—and with one sip, the vibrant Pinot Noir–dominant wine inside invariably gets it underway. Aromas of baked apple and quince are energetically dappled with salted almond and white blossom, while the fairly fleshy mouthfeel intersects neatly with firm acidity amid inimations of red berry and pastry.