Wine Reviews

92

Geyser Peak Winery 2023 Walking Tree Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($25)

Mouth-coating, dusty vanilla, custard, and honeysuckle entertain on first sip. Undertones of basil, sandalwood, and lemon zest provide a platform for excellent balance.

90

Geyser Peak Winery 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, California ($14)

Grapefruit zest, fennel, and a sleek minerality interplay with racy acidity. Bright, crisp, and shiny.

98

Grgich Hills 2022 Chardonnay, Paris Tasting Commemorative, Napa Valley ($135)

Most American wine professionals are aware of the 1976 “Judgement of Paris” tasting and by extension know the historical legacy this wine needs to live up to. It succeeds, brilliantly. Intricately detailed in both aroma and flavor, yet so well integrated already that all the fruit- and oak-derived details are arrayed harmoniously, this is a rare wine that can be examined with profit for an hour or just enjoyed with delight from the moment the cork is pulled. A marvelous accomplishment—and a fitting one, too.

96

Grgich Hills 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley Essence, Napa Valley ($72)

Confidence is required to name a Sauvignon Blanc “Essence” and price it at $72, but this finished product meets these challenges. It hits a near perfect balance point between varietal intensity and a more mannered profile. Aromatic and flavor notes span the Sauvignon spectrum running from citrus to melon fruit notes, with alluring but subtle herbal and mineral accents. This measures up to the best renditions of the variety from anywhere in the world.

99

Guarachi Family Wines 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($110)

From Guarachi’s Meadowrock Estate in Atlas Peak, and aged 23 months in 100% new French oak, Winemaker Julian Gonzalez takes precise care to craft this masterful mountain Cab. Suede tannins release a hint of dusty cherry skin while plum liqueur paints the tongue, adding a slight grip. Sturdy tannins and graphite team up for its bold nature. As it opens, a creamy wash ensues, morphing into a plush pillow finish.

96

Guarachi Family Wines 2022 Chardonnay, Sun Chase Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($50)

Sitting 1,400 feet above sea level and influenced by maritime air, a perfume of daffodils reaching towards the sun lifts out of the glass. An unctuous mouthfeel, with some weight on the palate is graced by lemon bar, pineapple, and mango. A candle wax sleekness accents minerality and ample acidity.

95

Guarachi Family Wines 2023 Lucas & Sophie Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

Named for Alex Guarachi’s son and daughter, this Atlas Peak-sourced 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in French oak for 12 months. It possesses velvet-lined, chocolate-cherry tannins with sultry notes of blueberry ganache. Approachable and luscious, with graphite, violets, and a seamless finish.

95

Gust 2022 Syrah, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($45)

Black peppered plum and new leather are embraced by roast coffee and graphite. This cool climate Syrah is big and bold, although tannins are round, and velvet lined. Beautifully structured, with an old-world acidity and persona.