Wine Reviews

94

Gust 2023 Chardonnay, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($40)

After barrel-aging the wine, it rested on the lees for 10 months before blending and bottling. The resulting texture offers a riveting mouthfeel primed by a fine acid structure. Beautifully balanced with cocoa cedar, honeydew, and yellow apple. Toasty, leesy layers are streamlined for an ethereal creaminess on the finish.

93

Gust 2024 Riesling, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($30)

Fresh linen, jasmine, and kiwi are striking aromas that also grace the palate. Acidity is taut and peaks at mid-point. Floral tones are precious, with a tart, gem-tone Mandarin orange finish.

94

Gust 2024 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Catapult Ranch, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($30)

This vineyard site on Diablo clay loam is protected from the Petaluma Gap’s harsh winds and cooling fog, and the Heritage clone is chosen for its expressive fruit and high acidity. It’s a dreamy, salmon-hued sipper with charming notes of roses, jasmine, and red raspberry. Candied mango and a hint of peppermint are stunning against a delicate mineral tonality. We’re impressed.

92

Hahn 2023 Pinot Noir, California ($15)

Ripe cherry, red tea, and sweet tobacco are luminous. A dash of salinity lights up the palate, adding spark to its perky acidity. A dynamic, juicy Pinot Noir that over-delivers in every aspect.

89

Hampton Water Bubbly, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($30)

In collaboration with rocker Jon Bon Jovi and his son, Jesse Bongiovi, illustrious French winemaker Gérard Bertrand crafts this simultaneous ode to the South of France and the South Fork of Long Island. Very pale orange-pink in the glass, the blend of 47% Pinot Noir, 30% Grenache, and 23% Chardonnay delivers zippy aromas and juicy flavors of citrus—pink grapefruit, lime, orange—as well as strawberry and peach, enhanced by subtle sensations of lemon blossom and stony minerality. It’s no less sprightly for its relatively soft texture.

93

Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2022 Block Three Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills, Lake County ($85)

Savory, earthy old-world character with graphite, Italian herbs, and a defined tension and grip. Acidity rears up and dons a freshness with a flow of black raspberry. Still very youthful in its demeanor.

94

Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills, Lake County ($75)

From the winery’s high elevation Biodynamic-certified estate vineyard towering as high as 2,200 feet, this is a highly aromatic red with a perfume of chocolate cherry and new leather. On the palate, the grip is firm and dusty. Italian herbs, iron, and a taut acidity are platformed on a mineral base.

92

Highflyer 2022 Centerline Red, Lodi ($25)

Aromas of Mediterranean herbs and blackberry light up the glass and correspond to the flavors on initial entry. Juicy, with a tart boysenberry-vanilla freshness. A dash of white pepper adds zip to an otherwise velvet mouthfeel. A superb blend of 66% Zinfandel, 28% Primitivo, 4% Syrah, and 2% Petite Sirah.