Wine Reviews

94

Elouan 2023 Single Vineyard Reserve “The Good Light” Pinot Noir, Oregon ($50)

Cinnamon and clove surround black cherry and burnt orange peel. Asian five spice lends piquancy, with a deep plum liqueur effect. Tilled soil and roasted coffee bean go deep on the long finish.

93

Famiglia Zingarelli 2022 Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy ($25)

Jasmine and hibiscus settle kindly on the palate, with stark acidity embellishing its inner freshness. A touch of basil, red tea, and strawberry gelée finishes with a fruit kiss. Kosher.

93

Flowers 2023 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($50)

Barrel-fermented with native yeast and then aged entirely in French oak (30% of which was new), this embodies so much of what makes Flowers the respected producer it is: Generosity, minerality, and acidity exist side-by-side, which lend balance to the notes of ripe Seckel pears, caramelized nectarines, and a passing hint of pie crust, which provides an ideal bass note against which almond blossoms rise.

93

Flowers 2023 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($55)

Rich aromas of ripe black cherry and blood orange are dusted with earthy spice and find lift with subtly perfumed notes of citrus oil and incense. These follow through to the velvet-textured palate, whose spine of minerality lingers through the long, detailed finish. Delicious both on its own and at the table.

94

Gary Farrell 2022 Chardonnay, Russian River Selection, Sonoma Cty ($50)

Intriguingly distinctive due to its unusual aromatic profile, this is obviously delicious and easily among the best American Chardonnays at this price. The bouquet shows scents of honeysuckle, clove, and baking spices, leading to complex flavors spanning the range of orchard and tropical fruits, with citrus edging and a faintly nutty undertone. Compelling juice.

94

Gary Farrell 2023 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($50)

New releases from this winery have been strikingly strong in recent vintages, which is especially noteworthy because the wines have always been excellent. This Pinot is fresh and lively, but with savory notes already emerging from the core of fruit recalling both red and black cherries as well as lightly spicy undertones. Plenty to ponder here—or just enjoy.

92

Geyser Peak 2022 Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Rich and robust, with nutmeg-cinnamon that animates notes of cassis, blackberry, and new leather. Tannins are round and plush.

90

Geyser Peak Winery 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($14)

Full-bodied charmer, with milk chocolate cherries and red beets. Chewy tannins allow a textural pleasure, sweeping the palate with blueberry gelée and ending with a toasty coating.