Wine Reviews

90

Drop of Sunshine Red Blend, California ($25)

Composed of 62% Pinot Noir, 19% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this warm and cozy wine exudes toasty aromas and flavors of plum, cherry, and raspberry lightly drizzled with vanilla and caramel; taut acidity adds a spark to its velvety mouthfeel.

91

Drop of Sunshine Sparkling Rosé, California ($25)

As cheerful as its name, this Charmat-method blend of 40% French Colombard, 20% Syrah, 18% Riesling, 11% Barbera, and 11% Zinfandel sports scents of watermelon and cherry candy dashed with blood orange, cinnamon, and honeysuckle. In the form of white pepper and dried herb, a similar touch of spice adds a charming little kick to the fruit-forward palate (think Rainier cherry, raspberry, and grapefruit).

96

Du Coeur 2022 Cuvée Layla Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosebud Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington ($75)

Named for his 1-year-old daughter, with lyrics to the Beatles’ “Across the Universe” written in Du reverse on the label, this red reflects the effort and tension Kawa puts into his work and is ultimately a celebration of the life he shares with his family. The wine is creamy and quite approachable in its youth, with notes of boysenberry ganache and dark chocolate dressed in satin.

97

Du Coeur 2022 Pinot Noir, Domaine Daniel Laurent Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon ($65)

Winemaker Laurent Montalieu sourced grapes from this 110-acre vineyard planted 23 years ago. Aromas of jasmine, parchment, and raspberries in aspic are stunning, and the liquid is ethereal, accented with white-peppered cranberry gelée, cinnamon-dusted rose petals, savory rhubarb, and bergamot. Boasting dense tannins that will stand the test of time, this wine is sold out, but the 2023 vintage will release this summer.

96

Du Coeur 2022 Pinot Noir, Shea Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon ($65)

Between the angel and the devil illustrated on the label, who knows which will steal your heart—but this wine aged nine months in (75% neutral and 25% new) French oak certainly tempts with its earthy nose thanks to whole-cluster fermentation, which also enhanced its texture and intensified the flavors. Notes of heather and basil with volcanic-soil nuances delicately spread across the palate before the finish of blood orange and tobacco leaf derived from Pommard clones.

97

Du Coeur 2022 Syrah, Stoney Vine Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington ($75)

Justin Wylie crafted a special wine here, with layers of boysenberry liqueur, salted charcuterie, smoky minerality, and seductive hints of cracked pepper atop a velvet foundation. Violets and cassis join in on the aromatics, eventually giving way to a long, cedar-washed finish. Kawa calls it a “wine lover’s wine: a bicycle without training wheels,” adding that the soil is so rocky on this site in the cool southwest part of the AVA that it’s impossible to mechanically harvest the fruit.

95

Du Coeur 2023 Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($55)

Aged 11 months in French oak, this is a weighty Chardonnay with aromas of marzipan and lemon blossom. Grown in the rocky Van Duzer Corridor, it starts with briny lemon wedge, followed by white peach amid a flood of creamy meringue. “True balance is a rhythm,” vintner Wesam Kawa points out. Nuanced and exceptional, the wine is certainly balanced with acidity, fruit, and minerality.

92

Elouan 2023 “The Good Light” Reserve Chardonnay, Oregon ($40)

Bright and perky, with white pepper, lemon verbena, and tangerine zest. Acidity is balanced with fruit delivery, making for an extremely good partner with a bounty of dishes.