Wine Reviews

96

Louis M. Martini 2021 The Gryphon Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($85)

This is the winery’s debut release, a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot, and 2% Malbec, sourced primarily from southern Napa Valley between Coombsville and Atlas Peak. Winemaker Zach Watkins has been leading “a very intentional effort to turn the ship back to Martini’s roots—to that classic Napa style.” This food-friendly red offers up dusty dark chocolate-lined tannins, alluring and opulent. Round and generous, with a harmony of oak, acid, and savory umami, for a world-class style.

92

Lubanzi 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa ($18)

Having tasted terrific renditions of Chenin Blanc and Cinsault in Lubanzi’s line of current releases, I was hoping to find comparable quality and improvement in this Sauvignon…and find it I did. It shows facets of both the herbal and citrus-based style of Sauvignon Blanc from France and New Zealand as well as the riper, melon-based style of most Sauvignons from California. That is a winning combination.

95

Lucia by Pisoni 2023 Pinot Noir, Sobranes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County ($70)

An iconic family name and a coveted vineyard site is an ideal match for this inspired red with flavors of black cherry, tree bark, red tea, and cinnamon hots. Thanks to Mark and Jeff Pisoni, the balance of wet earth tones with grilled meats offers a sensational profile of body, plus character.

94

MacRostie 2022 Pinot Noir, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($66)

Spiced mulberry goes juicy on first pass, with dried rose petals and red tea leaves. Black raspberry is accompanied by dusky notes of bramble and sweet earth.

95

MacRostie 2022 Pinot Noir, Olivet Lane, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($70)

Sweet tobacco and soil meld with a perfume of dried roses and basil. Opulent, with a dash of salinity marking pomegranate and candied apples. Sleek mouthfeel, with a dollop of raspberry jelly on the finish.

92

MacRostie Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($32)

Aromas: Persimmon, cinnamon, peony
Ranier cherries, watermelon, and lanolin are delicate, bracing notes. There’s a connection to slate and dried rose petals that add texture. A juicy wake-up call at mid-point reflects some tension and verve.

91

Maris 2024 Rose, Languedoc Roussillon, France ($19)

Aromas: raspberry, lemon flowers
Produced with organic grapes, this blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah leverages biodynamic viticulture, horse-powered plowing, and a range of other eco-friendly initiatives to produce this juicy wine. Flavors of red berry fruit, springtime blossoms, and a savory spine of minerality zip along with freshness and energy.

95

Markham Vineyards 2021 Merlot, Little Cannon Vineyard, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($72)

An estate grown Merlot with marine influence from the San Pablo Bay, cooling down any over-ripeness and bringing out more savory tones. Aromas of tobacco and underbrush are accented with deep, concentrated black cherry. Orange peel, pine, and cinnamon stick aligns with velvet tannins. This is a fearless Merlot from the winery’s Marked Parcel Series.