Wine Reviews

92

ILARIA 2022 Malbec, Napa Valley ($50)

With 16% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, this massive Malbec, aged 22 months in 50% French oak, hails from Coombsville (84%) and Napa Valley (16%). Dusky and spiced, with sage intertwined in plum skins and salted figs in an umami-style soy sauce. Muscular, with dusty tannins that are taut but not overpowering. Finishes with underbrush and ultra ripe mulberry.

92

J. Lohr 2022 Tower Road Petite Sirah, Paso Robles ($35)

Lavender surrounds the palate, even toned and concentrated. Ripe plum engages with dark chocolate at mid-point, with silky, rich tannins carrying the flavors through to the spiced sandalwood finish.

91

J. Lohr 2024 Wildflower Valdiguié, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County ($13)

Fresh, fruity, and ripe with cherry skins, summer plum, and lilac. A fine line of acidity follows through to the zippy finish.

96

Jordan 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($60)

Thanks to a lower alcohol level than most Napa Cabs, the silky tannins and bright acidity are fluid and shine with an inherent approachability. Vivid notes of boysenberry, vanilla cedar, and, and sweet soil are amplified with a surge of saline minerality. St. Julien style with that California glow.

91

Just Enough Wines 2023 Brut Bubbles, Central Coast, CA ($7)

This canned blend of 99% Chardonnay with trace amounts of Viognier, Gewürztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc achieves an impressive balance between lush aromas and refreshing flavors: Honeydew melon, lemon cookie, and ripe golden apple on the one hand, Sorrento lemon with hints of lemongrass, pineapple, and vanilla on the other. Tangy acidity sets the tone for a nice, dry finish.

91

Just Enough Wines 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast, CA ($7)

One of the better canned wines we’ve tried, this Sauvignon Blanc asserts itself gracefully with aromas of star fruit and white grapefruit subtly met by hay and white pepper. They’re rounded out on the palate by shades of tropical fruit, including mango, in sync with a glossy mouthfeel.

95

Kobler 2022 Cuvée of the River Grenache, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($48)

It comes in at 14.8 percent abv, but thanks to an old-world style acidity, notes of persimmon and pomegranate light up with an inherent freshness. The airy nature of the liquid seemingly floats above the tongue with an angelic grace. A pinch of salinity enters mid-point, with a rub of dried roses, peony, and red tea.

93

Kobler 2022 Pinot Noir, Bacigalupi Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($75)

Ripe cherries soaked in clove perfume the glass. Raspberry liqueur in an earthy frame circle around dried rose petals, orange peel, and red beets. Juicy and taut, with a cinnamon cedar finish.