Wine Reviews

93

Kobler 2023 Gewürztraminer, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($28)

Aromas: Lime, lychee & apricot
Classic notes of lychee, with apricot nectar, orange peel, and ginger root. Focused minerality is a key factor for this stunner.

92

Kobler 2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($24)

Aromas: Orange blossom and watermelon
Juicy cantaloupe and spring garden flowers are entwined in raspberry and wet stone. Slick, with powdered roses on the dry finish.

93

Kobler 2023 Viognier, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($36)

Aromas: Honeysuckle, mango, caramel
Unctuous mouthfeel, with crème fraiche, lemon batter, melted white chocolate, and elderflower. There’s a subtle spice on the back of the throat, tempered by an apple-banana finish. 12% abv.

93

La Scolca 2024 Gavi dei Gavi, Gavi DOCG, Piedmont, Italy ($42)

Aromas: Honeyed pears, white flowers, green apples
This 100% Cortese is as austere as it is fresh tasting. Lemon tart, Italian herbs, and lime sorbet reach the palate with scintillating acidity and a linear mineral component. Acacia and green apple are fine partners for a burst of flavor from mid-point to finish.

94

Lava Cap 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, El Dorado, CA ($32)

This is highly exciting Cabernet offered at a price that won’t boost your blood pressure. Made from fruit grown in volcanic soils on hillside sites ranging in elevation from 2,700 to 3,100 feet (reportedly the highest elevation Cabernet Sauvignon plantings in Northern California), this is packed with pure blackberry fruit accented with a lip-smacking streak of saline minerality. Already quite complex in its youth, this will only improve for another five years.

93

Lava Cap 2024 Chardonnay Reserve, El Dorado, CA ($26)

Sourced from six Chardonnay blocks ranging from 2,400 to 2,700 feet in elevation on estate vineyards planted in volcanic soil, this is intriguing on those grounds even before the wine hits the bottom of one’s glass. Medium-bodied, it displays very pure fruit notes of Golden apples and orchard fruits, fresh acidity, and a nice suggestion of saline minerality that one rarely finds in California Chardonnay.

93

Lievland Vineyards 2023 Bushvine Pinotage, Paarl, South Africa ($19)

With 4% Grenache added in, the wine emotes black raspberry soaked in espresso. Sweet tobacco answers to earthy undertones, with a long, spiced cedar finish.

92

Lievland Vineyards 2024 Chenin Blanc, Paarl, South Africa ($19)

From old vine heritage vineyards, this Chenin Blanc is dusted with vanilla and hazelnut. Lifted notes of white tea and lime chiffon offer an austere profile.
Man Vintners