Wine Reviews

90

Murphy-Goode 2023 Pinot Noir, California ($18)

Notes of cherry bark, milk chocolate, and Rooibos tea stretch across the palate, thanks to a brisk acidity. Sweet tobacco and dried roses add another layer from mid-point to finish.

93

Oberon 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa County ($29)

The wine ripples with plush Tuscan leather and bright, juicy plum and cherry. The oak treatment and fruit profile is sophistication incarnate, with cassis, dark chocolate and baking spices that blossom with balance and measured precision. Tannins are soft yet defined, with a Cabernet Sauvignon that is categorically self-assured.

96

Oleandri 2022 Broken Rock Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($135)

This is a delicious and very well-made Napa Cabernet from a vintage that has greatly exceeded early expectations. Layered notes including dark cherry, black plum, and blackcurrants are nicely braced by lightly toasty oak accents that work with fine grained tannins to provide structure for the wine’s ripe, sweet fruit.

98

Oleandri 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley ($175)

This Cabernet displays its Rutherford AVA pedigree with rich, deeply flavored fruit marked by nearly perfect symmetry of ripe sweetness, freshening acidity, and gently firming tannins. Oak is notable but also well measured, yielding a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared to improve for 15 years.

89

Opera Prima Bellini, Spain ($8)

Like its namesake, this sparkling wine-based quencher brims with yellow peach, here accented liberally by pink grapefruit and strawberry. It’s luscious in the mouth but not cloying, a feat considering it contains 80 grams per liter of sugar

89

Opera Prima Brut, Spain ($8)

On the nose of this Charmat-method bubbly, hints of banana, kiwi, and kitchen herb join primary golden apple and pear, which mingle on the medium-bodied palate with some peach that textures the moderate acidity.

89

Opera Prima Paloma, Spain ($8)

This sparkling wine-based tribute to the Paloma lives up to its name with intense notes of ruby grapefruit as well as lime and a touch of nectarine. Given its 55 grams per liter of sugar, the juicy palate is surprisingly refreshing.

90

Opera Prima Rosso, Spain ($8)

Aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries, and cranberries lifted by a dash of balsamic are charming in this sparkling red wine–based beverage with 30 grams per liter of sugar. With its full and ripe yet peppy palate, it would be great with equally ripe, bloomy cheese (or even cheesecake).