Wine Reviews

93

Matanzas Creek 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($25)

Some California Sauvignons fall short by trying to be all things to all people, but this one deftly balances a grassy, citrus-driven style with riper melon flavors. Medium-bodied but still quite fresh without turning overly tart, it is equally well suited to stand-alone sipping or enjoyment at the table with relatively light foods.

90

Meiomi 2023 Bright Chardonnay, California ($20)

Labeled so that a single glance indicates that “Bright” means only 8% alcohol and 80 calories in a five-ounce pour, the question then becomes whether this wine can still prove satisfying as well as conscience-soothing. My answer is yes, thanks to a bit more sweetness than usual for Chardonnay to compensate for the lower alcohol, plus wood that is evident but not excessive for a light rendition of the variety.

89

Meiomi 2023 Pinot Noir, California ($20)

) Still on the sweet side but is now a bit lighter than some past vintages and seeming less amped-up and more in line with conventional stylistic expectations for Pinot Noir. The arguable down-side of that is that this release barely has enough richness to support its sweetness.

95

Minus Tide 2022 Pinot Noir, Mendocino Ridge Vineyard, Mendocino County ($48)

A voice for the Mendocino Coast, the dry-farmed vineyard sits 2,000 feet above sea level just 3.5 miles from the Pacific. This fresh and vibrant Pinot Noir opens with sea breeze acidity and seashell minerality. Cranberry and cinnamon-spiced tea leaves add a platform for earthy tones of mushroom and umami to peek through.

94

Morgan 2024 Albarino, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, CA ($30)

A wine that screams for seafood, the flavors mount on a bed of stone fruit and saline. Delicate and fresh, basil and thyme are balanced with an enduring crispness. A Spanish grape on American soil, the wine is aged briefly in French Oak. The result is a success, with a mouthwatering yumminess.

93

Morgan 2024 Rosé of Grenache, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, CA ($25)

The pale, barely there pink colors hearken to the French Riviera and the sounds of the Marseillaise. Zesty from the start, notes of lime, peach, rose petal and mandarin signal it’s time to celebrate. It is bright and energetic with enough soul and complexity to please the crowd and the connoisseur.

96

Mount Langi Ghiran 2022 Talus Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria, Australia ($57)

If dark chocolate pushed up from the earth, surrounded by a garden of violets, then those would be the reason for the perfume and taste profile of this magnificent red. Luscious and creamy, with white-peppered blue fruit and flowers, burnished with bacon fat and simmered in soy sauce. Glorious.

89

Murphy-Goode 2023 Chardonnay, California ($18)

Reined in rich flavors of vanilla pound cake, honeysuckle, and oak. Leesy notes of nutmeg-kissed yellow apple coat the palate on the finish, with a hint of salinity.