GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

94

MacRostie Winery 2022 Pinot Noir, Nightwing Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($68)

From MacRostie’s estate vineyard, the ’22 is the second vintage produced from Nightwing, which sits at an elevation of 1,200 feet. Rose petals are dusted with cinnamon, while notes of clove and cocoa possess power over the palate. Dark cherries bolster the aromatics and flavor profile with its implicit ripeness. Cherrywood offers a toasty mid-palate frame, with a core of red pepper, bergamot, persimmon, and pomegranate.

93

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($40)

By comparison to this producer’s excellent Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, this shows a bit more weight and a bit more wood influence to match. Light floral aromas lead to a medium-bodied profile with classic orchard fruit notes at its core, edged with citrus-like acidity.

95

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay, Mirabelle Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($48)

This producer’s mastery with Chardonnay is proved by the roaring success of this wine, which is utterly different from the Stubbs Vineyard 2023. Entirely seductive with its tropical fruit and mandarin orange aromas and flavors braced by more assertive, spicy and toasty oak than in the Stubbs, both have remarkably long, pure, symmetrical finishes.

92

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($28)

A Chardonnay that stands out on grounds of impeccably pure fruit, this shows just enough spice and a faint hint of barrel toast to keep it on the right side of the line separating “pure” from “simple.” With fruit notes recalling ripe peaches with a touch of tropical fruit akin to pineapple, this is delicious in a straightforward style.

97

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay, Stubbs Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($66)

The cool, extended 2023 growing season was very effectively utilized in the growing and vinifying of this wine, which offers expressive and fully satisfying aromas and flavors but is most remarkable for its bright clarity and linear energy. In its way, it brings Puligny-Montrachet to mind and is terrific now but destined for a decade of positive development.

91

Maison Saleya 2024 Rosé, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, Provence, France ($13)

This would be competitive at $18, but at $13 it seems like a steal. Not quite as pale in color as many rosé wines from the region, it also offers just a touch of fruity sweetness but remains classy and restrained by global standards for the category. This finishes clean and dry despite showing some ripe fruit notes in the mid-palate, which is a winning combination.

91

Malbado 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Cigar leaf and espresso demand attention while graphite grabs the teeth on first pass. Tannins are amply displayed, and the wine bears a fine structure within a streamlined frame.

93

Malbado 2023 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Sturdy and savory, with a surge of energetic, salted blackberry, roasted coffee, and a defined umami mid-palate. Toasty notes are generated by the creamy, dark plum and bittersweet dark chocolate character. Impressive!