Wine Reviews

90

Le Garenne 2024 Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, FR ($17)

This is a quite dry, very sharply defined wine driven by prominent acidity. Scents and flavors of orchard fruits lead the way, with citrus notes taking over in the bright finish.

93

Les Sarrins 2024 Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($26)

A textural sensation, this expressive rosé is marked with ripe peach, minerality, peanut brittle, and lavender. Layered with nuance, it speaks to sunshine and freshness, with balanced acidity.

91

Lifevine 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Ukiah, CA ($18)

The packaging for this wine emphasizes “Zero Sugar” and “Purity Tested,” and though it seems targeted for a specific market niche, it will prove very broadly popular on its sensory merits alone. Although it is indeed fully dry, there’s nothing austere about the wine, as the fruit’s ripe flavors lend an impression of juiciness. This is nicely balanced by fresh acidity that provides an edge that isn’t overly sharp.

93

Lloyd by Robert Lloyd 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Carneros, Napa Valley ($30)

French in style, with seashell minerality and a fine salinity. Juicy pears, green apples, and lime sorbet tend to the palate with a refreshing crispness.

89

Lobetia 2024 Rose, Tierra de Castilla, Spain ($13)

A certified organic rosé made at high altitude from grapes picked at night and cold macerated prior to vinification, this is a bit simple but still refreshing and very tasty. The varieties are Garnacha and Bobal, offering straightforward flavors recalling ripe red cherries and strawberries with enough acidity to keep the finish refreshing.

96

Lorenzi 2021 Cabernet Franc, South Coast, CA ($75)

You couldn’t be blamed for doubting that Southern California could produce Cab Franc at the highest global level, but this will resolve any doubts. Just a touch lighter and more elegant than Cabernet Sauvignon, with a lightly leafy varietal note, this offers deep flavors structured by soft, fine-grained tannins. A remarkable achievement.

95

Lorenzi 2022 Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($75)

Physically dense, dark, and full of ripe flavors, this is a dramatic wine rather than one situated on the more delicate side of the Pinot spectrum. Its sweet fruit easily counterbalances the wine’s oak and tannins, warding off any astringency or youthful hardness. For those who love fleshy, opulent Pinots, your ship has come in.

92

Matanzas Creek 2024 Chenin Blanc, California ($20)

Chenin is exceptional as a variety that can retain acidity in warm climates. This first release from Matanzas Creek shows not only promise but secured success, with restrained but notable floral aromas followed by flavors recalling pear and white melon with a squeeze of fresh lime.