Wine Reviews

95

Joel Gott 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, California ($25)

This Sauvignon Blanc offers hypnotizing aromas of currant, honeysuckle and white pepper. The wine is charismatic and confident with rich citrus throughout alongside fleshy nectarine and a satiny mouthfeel.

91

Julia James 2023 Pinot Noir, California ($15)

Named for the 3rd generation Opici family, this red is aged in stainless steel, American, and French oak for 12 months before release. Spirited and bright, with wild strawberry, cola nut, and hibiscus, it reaches its vivacious heights with a juicy freshness. Sweet tobacco adds a savory, earthy character to its ripe cherry persona.

92

Kate Arnold 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($34)

This Cabernet shows an honest, straightforward profile that is very appealing, and yet it does not lack for complexity. The fruit notes run the show, displaying suggestions of dark berry and Bing cherry with an accent recalling cocoa powder. Structural components of acidity and tannin are very well integrated, enabling the wine to express itself clearly without shouting.

92

Kate Arnold 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Kelsey Bench AVA, Lake County, CA ($32)

Made with organic grapes, this shows a distinctly fresh side with lightly grassy aromas and zesty acidity, but also some riper melon notes as well as accents that seem derived from some use of oak in the winemaking regimen. The result is a balanced and versatile expression of the variety that offers substance for enjoyment at the table but also good refreshment value as a sipping wine.

94

Key to Bldg. 1 2021 Italian Red Blend, H. Verlassenschaft Vineyard, Block 4D & 4E, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($60)

This blend of 75% Nero d’Avola and 25% Negro Amaro is shadowed, moody, and concentrated with notes of plum liqueur, soy sauce, and lavender. Black cherry emerges mid-point, well-defined and focused. Acidity keeps a fresh watch on its holiday-spiced character.

96

Key to Bldg. 1 2021 Grenache, Glasir Holt Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($60)

Mouthwatering cocoa, with cherry-plum liqueur, addressed by an acidity that crosses the palate with grace and energy. Fresh and concentrated, with a mineral core it maintains weight and a generous amount of fruit. Glasir Holt Vineyard lies on the coolest, western edge of this AVA, close to Lompoc. Elegant and upright.

94

Key to Bldg. 1 2022 Albariño, H. Verlassenschaft Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($30)

Salted caramel pears and hazelnut glaze over the palate. Elderflower shines a spotlight at mid-point, expansive and expressive. The wine has a richness to it, but the bright acidity and chalky, dry river stone mouthfeel reins it in. Unusual for this variety, it is aged in 25% new French oak and the remainder in neutral oak. A gorgeous Central Coast salute to this Spanish variety.

95

Kobler Family Vineyards 2022 Syrah, Green Valley of the Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($65)

Bright mulberry, along with salted, cured meats and brambly wildflowers urge that next sip. Juicy, it performs a balancing act with keen acidity, wild strawberry, vanilla, and cherry-cedar. Potent notes of white pepper keep the palate engaged, along with satin tannins.