Wine Reviews

91

Elouan 2023 Chardonnay, Oregon ($20)

Mouth-filling and unctuous, with a fine sapidity, this Chardonnay is sourced from Oregon’s coastal range. Although rich, with a leesy character, its notes of marzipan, lemon curd, and vanilla are brightened by its ample acidity. It remains light on its feet with a long, leisurely finish.

93

Félicette (Space Cats), Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Languedoc, France ($13)

Named after a Parisian street cat launched into space in 1963 (believe it), this excellent and high-value Sauvignon was grown in Languedoc’s front range of the Pyrénées Mountains. It is very expressive in both aroma and flavor, with pleasantly herbal and grassy scents leading to fresh citrus fruit flavors recalling grapefruit and lime. Vibrant without being pungent or sour, this is a threat to Sauvignon from anywhere in the world priced under $20.

90

Fringe Wines 2023 “Spanish Cowboy”, Red Wine Blend, Sierra Foothills, CA ($32)

Comprised of 70% Zinfandel, 25% Tempranillo, and 5% Petite Sirah, this is full-bodied and very deeply flavored without coming off as heavy. It shows very ripe fruit that pushes its luck with lots of inherent sweetness but pulls up just short of seeming overblown. Unapologetically gutsy, it calls for comparably robust foods.

89

Fringe Wines 2024 “Spanish Cowgirl” Rosé Wine Blend, Sierra Foothills, CA ($28)

A salmon-colored rosé that is notably darker than the world-wide average, this also stands out by being much sweeter than most rosé wines in its price category. I would wish for more acidity to balance out the sweetness, but it is still a very tasty drink that will prove very pleasing to many tasters.

92

Gehricke 2023 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($29)

Tomato leaf, cherrywood, and cinnamon are dotted with white pepper. A pretty style with a waft of violets showing off a graceful demeanor.

95

Grand Mirande – Berthonneau 2023 Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux ($50)

A single site wine sourced from a Lieu-dit called Berthonneau, this is a dark, dense, impactfully flavorful wine that can nevertheless be enjoyed in its youth. Blended from Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, with notable but well-measured oak influence, this is remarkably accessible for a young Bordeaux with such deep flavors.

90

Here by Chance 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($25)

Super ripe blackberry, with espresso, licorice and smoky cedar. Broad flavors surround the palate, with stewed fruit and chocolate ganache.

94

ICON, The Beau Vigne Collection 2023 Proprietary Red Wine, Napa Valley ($80)

A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and Petit Verdot, it shows a firm grip. The wine directs your attention to iron-ore and espresso, slowly allowing its streamlined structure to open up. Dried lavender and black plum texturize the palate; tannins firm and muscular.