Wine Reviews

93

Chalk Hill 2023 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($21)

Aromas of lemon meringue and pineapple sorbet lead to a palate of chalk and citrus, with crushed stone brightening and bedazzling notes of lemon verbena and sugared almonds. Energetic, with taut acidity and a long, rich finish of white chocolate and honeysuckle. Over-delivers by miles.

98

Chapellet 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Hideaway Vineyard, Napa Valley ($200)

The wine is an ode to concentrated, earth-laden mountain fruit, the vineyard located at an elevation of 1,425 feet on the slopes of Pritchard Hill. Intense, dense, and supremely elegant, its well-defined, skyscraper tannins offer stature and structure, built for endurance. Notes of plum, cassis, espresso, and dark chocolate are a testament to the power and intention of its environment.

93

Château Clos Junet 2023 Saint Emilion Grand Cru ($40)

Already very open, soft, and easy to enjoy, this is a delicious and remarkably ready-to-rip Bordeaux at a more than fair price. The fruit notes of dark cherries and berries are very expressive but not too obvious, and accents of cedar and crushed rock minerality let you know you’re tasting Bordeaux rather than a placeless, “international style” wine.

94

Château des Sarrins 2024 Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($56)

Peach and apricot aromas possess an aura of minerality. Stone fruit pops up on first pass, opening a path to crushed rocks. Salted hazelnut, butterscotch, and undertones of thyme and tangerine zest texturize the palate.

92

Château Minuty 2024 Prestige Blanc, Côtes de Provence ($25)

Provence can be a source for excellent, subtly-styled whites—though they’ve been eclipsed during the global rage for the region’s rosé wines. Made entirely from Rolle (known as Vermentino in Italy), this is medium-bodied but still very fresh and bright, with delicate scents of white blossoms and flavors recalling ripe apples with a tart lemon edge.

95

Château Minuty 281 Rose 2024, Côtes de Provence ($55)

A high-end Rosé that’s priced accordingly, this is made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah. Light in pigmentation, it speaks softly but has a lot to say. Subtle aromas of red fruits echo in flavors recalling cranberries as well as slightly sweeter watermelon and strawberry, with citrus-like acidity and saline mineral notes more commonly found in fine white wines.

95

Cladrecis 2023 Sirch Chardonnay, Terre di Confine, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Italy ($50)

Luscious white peach seduces the palate on first sip. Vanilla cream laced with lemon chiffon is exquisite. Acidity is bright and the wine’s freshness stretches across the finish with nectarine blossom goodness.

92

Cline Family Cellars 2023 Eight Spur Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($25)

Black-peppered blueberry and Devil’s food Cake may seem to come off as blockbuster notes, but this well-balanced Zinfandel reins in the power to impart a juicy, savory profile. Tobacco, soy sauce, jalapeño, and bacon fat maintains this class act.