Wine Reviews

90

Bootleg 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($25)

Honest and straightforward in its ripe style, this gutsy Cabernet achieves good balance between the sweet core of dark cherry and blackberry fruit with some pleasantly grippy tannins. The pure sweetness of the fruit will permit cocktail-style sipping for those who enjoy structured reds while enabling this to also work well at the table.

93

Bouche Du Roi 2023 Abondance Pinot Noir BIO, IGP Île-de-France, Plaine de Versailles ($45)

A pure beam of cherries rises from the glass, and sets the stage for a palate that finds excellent balance between mixed cherries and berries as well as a turned-earth savoriness flecked with licorice and mushrooms.

93

Bouche Du Roi 2023 Grand Lever Chenin Blanc BIO, IGP Île-de-France, Plaine de Versailles ($45)

Taut with acidity and minerality that cut through honey, lemon, Granny Smith apple, and almond blossom, this Chenin Blanc is a versatile partner for a wide range of food right now, and promises to evolve in fascinating ways well into the future.

96

Brandlin Estate 2021 Henry’s Keep Red Wine, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($135)

In 2026, the 100th anniversary of grapes planted at Henry Brandlin’s homestead on Mt. Veeder will be a noteworthy milestone, a 49-acre site that reaches elevations exceeding 1200 feet. The blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot is aged 22 months in 60% new French oak barrels. The fruit ascends to great heights in its delivery of dense, ripe fruit. Black plum and charred orange peel adheres to sweet violets, graceful graphite, and savory espresso. Plush tannins offer the palate a deep dive into a long-lasting creamy finish.

95

Brassfield Estate Winery 2021 Block 14 Cabernet Sauvignon, High Valley, Lake County ($65)

Chewy, fleshy, and dusty, this brooding single vineyard red wine displays an energy that develops from its volcanic soils. Violets shine through black strap molasses, licorice, and cassis. It shows strength and muscle.

95

Caliza 2021 Companion, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles ($75)

A generous, bold, and sumptuous blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Syrah, and 8% Petit Verdot. Notes of espresso, crushed boysenberry up front, with flint on the back of the palate shows dimension. White pepper and umami, along with dried violets and licorice add volume to the mouthfeel.

94

Carmen 2023 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, D.O. Maipo Valley, Chile ($18)

Tense and chalky – a lifeline of bright plum and dried violets with a defined structure. Prickly with white pepper, its tannins glassy across the palate with a stroke of graphite. Its identity speaks to its freshness from the cooler climate, with dense concentration and color as its hero.

93

Carmen 2023 Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Carmenère, D.O. Colchagua, Chile ($18)

Its meaty nose exhibits strength while its rhubarb, coffee and high-toned acidity depicts a fresh, elegant style, without any weedy character. Black plum and lavender attach to the mid-palate grip, tannins evident but without a heavy hand. Aged 12-14 months in used barrels kept the fruit shining.