Wine Reviews

95

Auteur 2022 Pinot Noir, Balinard Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($85)

Roses and tart cherries show elegance, with cinnamon-cedar as a backdrop, but ultimately, this Pinot Noir exhibits a gravitas of mouthfeel that goes beyond a flavor profile. Acidity is perfectly balanced with fruit, and earth tones are more ethereal, like wet stone rather than an ode to soil and mushroom. This wine displays the grace of nature.

95

Auteur 2023 Chardonnay, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($65)

Exacting and focused, its Meyer lemon notes crystalline and clean. A rush of crushed chalk aims at mid-palate, with notes of sassafras, honeysuckle, and yellow apple. Farmed organically with native yeast fermentation. Aged sur lee with bâttonage for six months. Sleek.

94

Balverne Estate 2019 Forever Wild Malbec, Chalk Hill, Sonoma County ($45)

Expressive and elegant, with a creamy base. Jalapeño-kissed plum makes an exciting impression, followed by dark chocolate and espresso. Linear minerality weaves its way through violets and brambly herbs, creating a distinct, mouthwatering Malbec.

93

Balverne Estate 2021 Forever Wild Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Cherry bark, mulberry, soy sauce, and black tea form a union of complex, dramatic flavors. Savory, with a dot of white pepper and sweet tobacco on the silky finish.

95

Balverne Estate 2022 “Forever Wild” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($35)

Aromas of lemon sorbet, vanilla icing, and night jasmine are startling. A luxurious sipper, glossy and clean. Jasmine and white chocolate shine with refreshing acidity. Passionfruit, MacIntosh apple, and marshmallow linger on the graceful, lithe finish.

93

Barber & Son 2022 Red Blend, California ($35)

Assertive and assured, the wine is no wallflower, despite its floral nose. The blend is dominated by Zinfandel with Petite Sirah, Petite Verdot and even Teroldego playing contributing roles. Gritty tannins serve as an amuse bouche to a swell of black plum, violets, sweet tobacco and cassis.

91

Barrel & Bell 2023 Buttery Chardonnay, California ($16)

The aromatics live up to the name, immediately evoking the inside of a movie theatre. The wine is unapologetically sumptuous. Clove and apple crumble are mounted on a frame of stony minerality with a lemon custard finish.

96

Beau Vigne 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($200)

Rich, lathered boysenberry ganache, roasted coffee, and graphite ascend on the palate. Tannins are suede-lined, with melting dark chocolate. This wine possesses structure with broad, rounded shoulders.