Wine Reviews

94

Alvaredos-Hobbs 2023 Godello, Ribeira Sacra, Spain ($35)

The blend of 86% Godello and 14% Loureiro offers salty notes of green apple and lemon zest, driven by an intense minerality. Bright acidity adds to its linear, complex profile, with a notably elegant presence.

94

Ancient Peaks 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California ($28)

The fragrance immediately suggests a refined and mature oak treatment. The flavors are a benevolent Pandora’s box that ripple from the glass, including mocha, tobacco leaf, vanilla, leather, peppercorn and oolong tea. There’s dried plum and rosemary and a hint of a humidor. Tannins are stately yet comforting.

94

Ancient Peaks 2022 Merlot, Paso Robles, California ($24)

Berries are on full display. Dark, luscious bramble fruit and notes of cherry coulis partner elegantly alongside no small amount of nutmeg, coffee and clove, courtesy of an aging regime of 18 months in French and American oak barrels. The palate is lively, the tannins are firm but dripping with finesse.

97

Aperture 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Del Rio Vineyard, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($150)

This is one of the Site Series from Winemaker/Proprietor Jesse Katz, his collection of single vineyard selections crafted for their specific soil types. Del Rio Vineyard is planted on a steep, south-facing slope on chalky, volcanic soils. Brandied cherries, graphite, and a coat of black licorice unite in a luxurious bath of suede-lined tannins. Violets bloom mid-point, with undercurrents of espresso and Worcestershire. It fills the mouth and saturates the soul.

94

Aperture 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($75)

With some Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Merlot, fruit is mostly sourced from mineral-rich hills in Alexander Valley. Lavender soaked in blueberry jam is so luscious, it surprises the senses with a velvety mouthfeel. A touch of oak and mocha latte is a fine pair, ignited by a whisper of white pepper and dusty cocoa tannins.

95

Aperture Cellars 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($50)

Striking chalky minerality prowls around summer pear, Meyer lemon, and honeysuckle. Crème brulée exhibits the wine’s richness, with the presence of mango and gooseberry. Mouthwatering acidity ensues. Divine.

97

Argyle Winery, 2014 Extended Tirage Brut ($85)

A remarkably complex sparkler that compares favorably to some prestige Champagnes costing twice as much, this remains very fresh and energetic while also seeming creamy and luxurious due to a decade of aging on yeast lees. Flavors recalling poached pears and baked apples are accented beautifully by suggestions of fresh brioche and toasted nuts.

95

Argyle Winery, 2023 Nuthouse Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($50)

Argyle has been on a tear lately, releasing terrific table wines as well as sparklers. This is one of them, with medium-plus body, spicy and toasty oak notes lend accents in a precisely measured way, and with acidity that freshens the pure fruit without any unintegrated tartness. Impressively well grown and made.