Wine Reviews

95

Yacoubian-Hobbs 2022 White Blend, Aghavnadzor, Vayots Dzor, Armenia ($30)

Made from the Voskehat variety on high-altitude, rocky soils, stainless-steel tank fermented and aged nine months. Nutty aromas, with pear tart, vanilla crème, and elderflower. Silky on the mouth, it washes over the palate with tangerine, apricot nectar, and chamomile flower. As it progresses, the floral flavors bloom, accompanied by spiced fig and white chocolate.

96

Yesod 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Edcora Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($200)

Muscle-bound, with deep soil notes filled with graphite, desiccated violets, espresso, and blackberry. Bound by spiced cedar and a tarry middle, the palate is lifted by arching tannins, this is mountain fruit at its core.

99

Yesod 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Padis Vineyard, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($250)

Tarry and concentrated, with Devil’s Food cake and black cherry surrounded by velvet-lined tannins. Elegant and chewy, with fine oak integration rounding out, softening, and ultimately lengthening, the spiced finish.

90

Zephara 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon (made with organic grapes), CA ($17)

This is a wine with serious tannic structure for a Cabernet in its price range, and consequently an unusually good choice for those seeking a relatively affordable partner for robust foods when cost is an issue. Many producers use some residual sugar to buffer the tannins in a wine such as this, but a bit of dietary fat in a grilled steak will perform the same function well.

98

Acumen 2022 PEAK Cabernet Sauvignon, Edcora Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($175)

When you have a vineyard named for the six-carat diamond of renowned fame for its reputation of being the largest of its kind in the world, there’s a lot to live up to. And after tasting the majestic fruit that comes off this mountain estate at 1,600 feet in elevation, we can attest to its brilliance. While diamonds and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes belong to different realms, one of natural beauty and the other of sensory experience, they each hold a special place in esteemed value. Stunning aromas of s’mores over a campfire lead to blackberries and violets bursting out of the ground, sharing space in an herb garden. Rocky, ashy mineral tones persist, aligned with plum skin tannins. This is a luscious red, ever-changing in the glass.

94

Acumen 2023 PEAK Sauvignon Blanc, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($55)

This Sauvignon Blanc is elegance incarnate, teeming with aristocratic charm. Hints of marmalade, thyme and lime blend seamlessly. Evocative of chalky stone, with tart citrus and a tangy finish, the palate presents a rhythm of flavors that peak and cascade with a musical grace.

93

Altus 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($30)

Perfumed with black tea, leather, and dark cherry, Altus runs deep. Savory roasted coffee, dark chocolate-covered plum and charred sandalwood make a strong impression. Intense and brilliant in its texture and length.

96

Alvaredos-Hobbs 2022 Mencia, Ribeira Sacra DO, Spain ($50)

Dried lavender comes alive on the palate, inciting an austere, dry mouthfeel softened by plum and black cherry. White pepper offers a spark, while the juicy nature of this blend of 93% Mencia and 7% Garnacha Tintorera is hypnotizing. Cured, salted meats and a wash of spiced red tea and cocoa add verve to an already complex red.