Spirit Reviews

Jersey Royals are the potato-base for this single-distilled vodka from the island of Jersey in the UK. They are short-seasoned, taking a year to grow and fertilized from seaweed off the coastline. Jersey Royals are the only potato variety known to boast their own Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). Crafted in 200-litre copper stills, the spirit offers a perfume of blueberry, candied ginger, and roses. While the fragrance remains captivating, a silky mouthfeel and earthy tonality takes shape. The tongue is coated with a creamy licorice and dried lavender base, dotted with black pepper. It finishes with a gentle sweetness and a trace of minerality.

Pungent sweetness and funky earthiness combine in a curious commingling of lychee and coconut in this bright, 80-proof spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice, an integral and popular part of Brazilian culture. The earthiness is reminiscent of rhum agricole.

This robust rye possesses technique and precision, with good grip and rhythm. It’s a mighty beast, but utterly refined as a well-practiced golf swing. Backdrop notes of caramel, peach, and baked pineapple placate the palate with the accuracy of demanding rye notes on front and finish.

Made in Texas, this 80-proof gin bursts in lemon, tangerine and a bright sizzle of acidity, its botanical composition combining juniper, orange, cucumber, lemon, lime, vanilla, rose, coriander, cassia, orris root, angelica root and angelica seed. Well-balanced in both savory and sweet tones, it is nice enough to sip solo but will liven up a tonic with ease.

From Oaxaca, inspired by 400 years of tradition, this spirit is double-distilled, wild yeast-fermented and made by an all-female team who receive direct pay, fair wages, and childcare. Yola Jimenez inherited her grandfather’s farm in her native Oaxaca in 2007 and soon after opened one of Mexico City’s first mezcalerias. Her Master Mezcalera is Guadalupe Bautista, one of few women in this role. This unaged, 90-proof version is strong in herb, pepper, and spice, with a depth of smoky charcoal and agave and a smooth texture, the complex, subtle mouthfeel lovingly accented in supple citrus.

Mezcal de Pechuga is a luxurious, laborious version that takes more time and skill to make, intended to be sipped slowly and mindfully. The centuries-old process involves a third distillation with seasonal fruits (Yola uses orange, tangerine, lime, guayaba, pineapple and tejocote), spices and a turkey breast that hangs above during production. High-toned floral aromatics open this lovely 90-proof mezcal, impressionable in its smooth texture, resolved intensity and high quality, while blood orange, tangerine and sandalwood combine effortlessly around a core of smoky complexity and memorable flavor.